By Jim Boyce | Beijing-based DIVA China, one of 15 worldwide offices in the Bordeaux-based DIVA network that connects producers with distributors and retailers, has a pair of job openings.
The marketing manager handles DIVA China brand management on social platforms such as WeChat, Weibo, Instagram, Facebook and LinkedIn as well as the company site. Duties also include coordinating marketing campaigns with sales drives, creating marketing materials and strategies to boost consumer awareness, keeping partners abreast of key developments, attending events, and handling flight, dining and other trip logistics.
The sales position duties include maintaining and building relationships with clients, developing new business opportunities and accounts, achieving revenue targets, and providing market assessments to management.
Interested? Send your CV to Yiftach Bar via the email address in the image below.
By Jim Boyce | Shanghai-based distributor American Wine Merchants (AMW) has announced it is cooperating with several U.S. wine promotion groups to open a Tmall store in mid-March. From an AMW press release (my highlights):
In cooperation with the California Wine Institute, the Washington Wine Board, the New York Wine and Grape Foundation, and the Oregon Wine Commission, which are all supported by the United States Foreign Agricultural Service and its regional Agricultural Trade Office in mainland China, the American Wine Merchants (AWM) is pleased to announce the launch of their flagship USA Wine Store on Alibaba’s Tmall.
“Our aim is to create U.S. wine awareness through education, marketing and promotion,” stated AWM manager Alex Chen in the press release. “Tmall already boosts 500 million-plus registered users in China and with the right marketing and promotional activities we believe we can reach each and every one…”
I contacted Chen, founder of importer and distributor Alexander Wines, earlier today and he said the timing is right for the store given a maturing wine market and exponential growth of online sales.
While wine has typically been used as a lubricant at business gatherings, and often consumed bottoms up (ganbei) style, Chen says a growing number of people are drinking it purely for enjoyment.
“Consumers are starting to know what they like and understand what they are buying,” he says. “The market is maturing, especially in first-tier, second-tier and third-tier cities. We can help develop a national market for U.S. wines rather than just regional pockets such as in Beijing and Shanghai.”
Chen also distinguishes between consumers seeking value for money rather than simply cheap wine, and says the AWM store is in contrast to online retailers he sees as “price slashers, the yesmywines, the 1919s of the world, that focus on buy three, get one free.”
While California is often seen as synonymous with U.S. wine in China, the AWM store will include products from other states.
“I think there is a lot we can offer in terms of Washington, Oregon, New York—even Texas is producing fantastic wines,” he said.
I’ll provide an update once the store is online. Also see this recent post on the upcoming master class tour in China by the California Wine Institute.
Alex Chen with importer Mariano Larrain at a US wine tasting in Beijing.
By Jim Boyce | Call it our tribute to the Chinese consumer: every year we hold the Grape Wall Challenge and ask occasional drinkers to be wine judges. The idea is to give consumers confidence around wine, a topic many people find complicated and intimidating, to discover what they like, and to have fun
While GWC usually focuses on wines that retail for under rmb100, this year’s theme was local labels—from Xinjiang, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Shanxi and Shandong—with good reputations and national distribution.
A dozen judges, from fields as diverse as IT, food catering, education and marketing, tasted the wines blind, scored each one as “love it”, “like it”, “dislike it” or “hate it”, and then discussed their picks with Ma Huiqin, a marketing expert and professor at China Agricultural University.
“Overall, the judges liked the wines and their favorites more or less reflected what professionals would pick,” said Ma. “They like something fruitier and most of the wines this year tended to be very juicy.”
The judges tried four flights: white wines and red wines under rmb165 and white wines and red wines from rmb166 to rmb320.
Cui Yunan, who does marketing in the food sector, said the tasting showed each wine’s uniqueness.
“I was kind of a Merlot person, I never go wrong when buying it for friends, as it’s sweet and fruity,” she said. “But I could taste the slight differences with each wine.”
She was surprised at wines from her home region of Ningxia.
“I know we have great weather for grapes, and I know we can make good wine, but I didn’t know we can make it that good!” said Cui. “It was beyond my expectations.”
Her favorite was a red blend from Kanaan: “It smells good and fresh, it’s soft, it’s not too sweet or sour.”
Pop-Up co-owner Vito Zhang said he had little experience with Chinese wines beyond those from Dynasty and Changyu. While he said the GWC wines were better, he did see room for improvement.
“My favorite was the [Bordeaux-style] Deep Blue from Grace Vineyard,” he said.
In terms of scores, the judges generally liked the white wines although no brand stood out as a clear favorite. For wines priced to rmb165, Kanaan Riesling from Ningxia (rmb150, Summergate) scored slightly higher, while Grace Vineyard Tasya’s Reserve Chardonnay from Shanxi (rmb308, ASC) took those honors for the pricier flight.
For red wines, the less expensive flight was the most divisive. It not only received more “hate it” votes than all other flights combined but also saw all four wines receive “love it” vote, thus showing the diversity of tastes among the judges. Silver Heights ‘Last Warrior’ Red Blend from Ningxia (rmb158, Torres) easily won this flight.
In the more expensive flight, four of the six wines were overwhelmingly loved / liked. Grace Vineyard ‘Deep Blue’ Cabernet blend from Shanxi (RMB 308, ASC) emerged as the highest-scoring wine of the night. One judge called it “refined” and others cited its soft fruity character.
Tiansai ‘Selection’ Cabernet-Shiraz from Xinjiang (RMB 328, East Meets West), noted for its ripe red fruit, as well as Kanaan ‘Pretty Pony’ Cabernet-Merlot from Ningxia (RMB 295, Summergate) and Silver Heights ‘Family Reserve from Ningxia (RMB 308, Torres) were also widely liked.
Ma noted that red wines dominate China’s market, with more than an 80 percent share, and that can affect perceptions.
“Consumers definitely have more experience and confidence with red wine,” she says. In terms of the white wines, she added that drinking chilled liquids, especially in the winter, is not common for many consumers.
Several judges also noted the relatively high prices, a common criticism in a market with an increasingly rich range of inexpensive imported wines. Even so, like Cui, they tended to be surprised by the quality of the Chinese wines and that bodes well for the future.
GWC doesn’t claim to reveal general truths about Chinese consumers but to give a snapshot of what a given group thinks. The judges left with not only a better understanding of what China but also full of delicious wine and pizza.
The full lineup of wines:
Flight 1: White wines up to rmb165
Chateau Nine Peaks (ä¹é¡¶) Chardonnay 2015, Shandong
Note: GWC is a non-profit initiative by Grape Wall of China. Pop-Up Beijing provided space for GWC8 as well as glassware, spittoons and other key materials, Ma Huiqin led the discussion, ASC, East Meets West, Paradox, Torres and Summergate donated the wines, and Jim Boyce handled general logistics. Thanks to all of the judges, particularly Chris, who provided the pizza!
By Jim Boyce | Another year, another set of wine stats from China Customs to consier. I’m on deadline tonight so here’s a quick look at the ten nations with more than 95 percent share of a market that grew 22 percent by volume and 17 percent by value in 2016. I’ll post more later.
The chart above gives you the basics on market share per country. You can find a more detailed chart at the bottom of this post and can get more in-depths look at each country for 2015 here.
France. Its massive lead means that even another slip in market share still sees it far ahead of the pack. Add that the size of the market is growing, that French imports were up 14 percent, and that the country is on the verge of one billion USD in sales, and things still look pretty good for the leader.
Australia. Notable growth by volume (40 percent) and value (23 percent) solidifies its second-place spot and makes it the success story of the past few years. With a 16 percent volume share and whopping 25 percent value share, it has the priciest bottles of any country in the top ten. A free trade pact with China, a good reputation for safe products and imports linked to business visa for Chinese citizens are among the factors helping those numbers.
Spain. Almost the same story as Australia by volume, as it just trails that country by a few million bottles, but a much different one by value. With 15 percent market volume and only 6 percent market value, Spain continues to be a source of low-priced wine. On the other hand, if consumers know where to look, they can get some pretty nice deals.
Chile. It solidifies itself in the top four with growth of 23 percent both by volume and value, beating the industry averages. It’s close to Australia and Spain by volume and tucked between them in terms of value-per-bottle. Chile’s easy-to-drink wines and its free trade pact with China help maintain its position.
Italy. The good news: Italy’s volume grew 14 percent growth. The bad news: it still lagged the industry average and dropped even further behind France, Australia, Spain and Chile, a tough position given the cultural advantages it holds in China and the massive amounts of marketing money spent. But there is a bright spot: value rose 38 percent, meaning some pricier wines are being imported.
United States. After a tough 2015, last year was level, with a slight drop in volume and a slight increase in value. It’s been fairly tough going for the United States, with its wines tending to be pricier, suggesting more entry-level gateway products might be in order. Also, the appreciating US dollar did not help.
South Africa. After a tremendous burst in 2015, some thought there would be a correction in 2016 due to overstocked warehouses. Instead, South Africa remained steady and is in a position to overtake the U.S. for sixth spot.
Growth of nearly 20 percent in value and volume helped Portugal keep its place, although value per bottle remains low. Argentina saw growth but, like 2015, at lower levels than the industry average, disappointing given this country has the potential of Chile and South Africa. And Germany remained flat again although it kept its tenth place position.
Here’s a more detailed chart. And I’ll post more about these numbers soon.
Born in Madagascar, Colin was schooled in France and did a master of oenology degree at Bordeaux University in the 1960s. He spent over a decade at Chateau Teyssier in Saint-Emilion. His interests took him in many directions, whether to work on the commercial side at ChâteauClarke, head to the Caribbean for a sugar cane alcohol project, or start a consulting company.
He first came to China in 1997, for a three-month stay in Fuzhou, then joined Grace in 2001. He was a welcoming figure for the growing flow of intrigued visitors. Alberto Fernandez of Torres, the first major distributor to handle Grace, said of his initial visit: “Gerard Colin received me with a big hug.” If Fernandez’s experience was like mine, Colin did so with a glass of wine in one hand and a cigarette in the other.
Snippets from this article about Colin say a lot about his attitude toward wine and China:
Our glasses are filled with a Merlot… full of carbon dioxide. Real fruit! It looks more like a grape juice yet it has 13.5 degrees of alcohol. “That is the best compliment you can give me,” said Gerard. “I have respected the raw material!”
“I am the only one going to the village, talking to the peasants, laughing with them and drinking tea. I hope they see it as consideration and respect. I am not a colonist, I just bring them technology, I empower them through training. When I make them taste their wine, I put down a white tablecloth!”
Colin soon found himself much in demand, whether for consulting on groundbreaking projects, speaking at conferences, hosting high-profile tastings or being interviewed by media.
He created plenty of buzz in 2009 when he became director of the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) project with CITIC in Shandong. The team faced incredible challenges, he explained:
… in choosing Penglai, we knew that major works would have to be undertaken. Our teams have developed 30 hectares of hills, removing 40,000 tons of stones and building more than 9 kilometres of dry stone walls around the plots. The vineyard consists of 30 plots and more than 200 terraces.
Major works, indeed. Colin was then nearly 70 and still going strong, with projects at Puchang in Xinjiang and Taila in Shandong yet to come. But by then, his place in China wine history was secure and his unexpected death this week will no doubt have many trade people reflecting on his influence.
Note: My earliest contact with Colin came via wines like his 2013 Grace Cabernet Franc that made me believe in China’s potential. My strongest memory is from 2012 and the first Ningxia Wine Challenge. It had an equal number of Chinese and non-Chinese judges, headed by Ma Huiqin and Jancis Robinson, and Colin was a natural choice. During the event, several people asked if Colin were sick, as he kept leaving the room. An investigation revealed he was sneaking smoke breaks!
After the event, I asked about the early Grace vintages, the 2003 Cabernet Franc, the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon he called special. He seemed both happy to reminisce and talk about his exciting new projects. That attitude to life will live on with many who knew him, just as the taste of those early wines still influences me, even if all that remains are empty bottles. Rest in peace, Gerard Colin.
By Jim Boyce | California’s Wine Institute is hitting the road again. Master classes for the trade will be held in a dozen Chinese cities during the first half of 2017, with some stops including tastings for consumers. It’s a follow-up to the inaugural 21-city tour that spanned mid-2015 to mid-2016. And, as the program matures, classes will start to go beyond an introduction to California wines to more niche topics.
“We are expanding our master class program in 2017 due to its incredible success in 2016,” says Chris Beros, who leads the institute’s China effort.
“We see increasing interest and also knowledge about California wines, so we are adding new classes in 2017 that will be more specific to a particular region or varietal,” he adds. “There is clearly an increased interest in California wines and this is also reflected in very strong wine export data from the United States in 2016.”
The Wine Institute announced its first tour, which covered 21 cities, in mid-2005 (also see this post and this post). With that successfully under the belt, it will be interesting to see market reaction to more niche topics.
Here’s a look at the schedule, including which stops have the introductory class that covers grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, the niche class focused on Zinfandel, and/or a consumer tasting.
Nanjing | February 20
Introduction to California Wines / Consumer Tasting
Ningbo | February 22
Introduction to California Wines
Hangzhou | February 24
Introduction to California Wines / Consumer Tasting
Wuhan | March 28
Introduction to California Wines / Consumer Tasting
Changsha | March 30
Introduction to California Wines / Consumer Tasting
Nanning | April 10
California Zinfandel / Consumer Tasting
Dongguan | March 12
Introduction to California Wines
Fuzhou | March 14
California Zinfandel Niche Class
Tianjin | June 12
Introduction to California Wines / Consumer Tasting
Qingdao | June 14
California Zinfandel Niche Class / Consumer Tasting
Jinan | June 16
California Zinfandel Niche Class
There will also be a California vintners tour, including master classes, in May for Beijing, Chengdu and Guangzhou, with a focus on Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. And a master class at the Southwest University of Finance & Economics in Chengdu in March.
By Jim Boyce | Canada offers grape lovers far more than icewine and soon Chinese consumers will have nine nice new options to try. Clear Lake Wineries will launch in Shanghai this month and sell those wines, all hailing from the province of Ontario, both online and via a monthly club. Named after the Great Lakes, which contain about one-fifth of the world’s fresh water and profoundly influence the wine industry, the company will initially represent four brands.
Angel’s Gate, near the city of Beamsville, planted its vines in 1996, produced its first vintage in 2000, and has grown to 35,000 cases per year. It has six vineyards at Beamsville Bench, plus properties at Creek Shores and Twenty Mile Bench, for a total of 190 acres. Winemaker Philip Dowell works with Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.
Closson Chase is in Prince Edward County, at the east end of Lake Ontario, and owned by seven partners, including renown industry figure Deborah Paksus. It covers 30 acres, uses Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, and got under way in the late 1990’s—see the timeline here—before producing its first vintage in 2004. There are lots of links to news coverage, reviews and recommendations, including by Beppi Crosariol, Tony Aspler and Jancis Robinson, here.
Malivoire, named after former movie special effects expert Martin Malivoire, is also on Beamsville Bench. It started with Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, Gamay and Pinot Noir, sources from four vineyards, and now makes 24,000 cases per year. The Malivoire ‘Moira’ Chardonnay scored well in this review by Alder Yarrow. Also see this look of 18 Malivoire wines by Jamie Goode as well as this article by Rick VanSickle.
Tawse, opened in 2005 is owned by Moray Tawse, a Burgundy lower: the stress on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is no surprise. It covers 200 acres, sources grapes from five vineyards, with the oldest vines being Chardonnay that dates to 1981 and Riesling to 1976, and makes 30,000 cases per year. Paul Pender and Rene Van Ede head up the wine-making, with an organic / biodynamic focus. There is also a label by Canadian musician Jim Cuddy of the band Blue Rodeo. Tawse was named Canadian winery of the year for 2010, 2011, 2012 and 2016 by Wine Align.
Back to China. Clear Lake Wineries will officially launch on February 16 at restaurant The Cannery in Shanghai (see here for tickets). Canadian-born Shanghai-based sommelier Emilie Steckenborn will lead a tasting and a pairing with foods by chef Freddy Raoult.
Mary Whittle, president of Clear Lake, says the goal is “to create a community of Canadian wine aficionados in China who we can engage with in an edutainment environment to learn about and enjoy great wine.”
Well, as Blue Rodeo sang, you’ve got to Try. (Then get Lost Together in the wine.)
Paradox is now close to launching and seeks an assistant manager / team leader for that establishment. The ideal candidate is a Chinese citizens with food and beverage industry experience and fluency in English. A good knowledge of wine is, of course, also beneficial.
If you are interested in applying, send your CV to Charles at ccarrard (at) gmail.com.
By Jim Boyce | The Chinese New Year holidays are underway and plenty of wine and baijiu bottles have already been emptied! All the best to my friends here in China and those around the world for the upcoming year. And if you are a fan of fireworks, check out the videos below. The first one shows fireworks exploding from dozens of sources around my apartment in central Beijing. It’s from 2007 and is most intense display I have witnessed.
The second video that shows how close some of those fireworks were to my building. One exploding projectile sent a few cinders into my apartment!
By Jim Boyce | For a long while, the best one-two wine shop punch in Beijing consisted of Jim Yang and Hector Jiang at Pudao, two nice guys who knew their stuff. Yang moved to corporate a year or so ago, then, in October, Jiang left and resurfaced last month doing what he loves best: running a restaurant.
His new place Bo—his full name is Jiang Bo—is in the Caochangdi area and just over a month old. I’ve yet to visit but wechat buddy NomNate says he had a tasty set lunch with salmon tartare, spaghetti bolognese and a Catalonian-style flan with pineapple. For a sweet soft opening price of rmb38.
“He does wine pairings in the evening,” adds NomNate. “He’s just a very nice guy who seems to be putting his heart into something,”
This place looks especially promising given Jiang’s previous stint as co-owner of former Italian restaurant Luce and his background at Pudao Wines. In terms of wine, Jiang says the lineup is solely ‘old world’, split 30 percent Italian, 30 percent French and 20 percent Spanish, with a smattering of labels from other nations.
Meanwhile, the food focus is “simple, healthy and fresh Italian”, he says, and adds that he fresh ingredients each morning. This looks like a good place to check out after the Chinese New Year holidays.
Bo is open Monday through Saturday, 10:30 AM to 10 PM, with lunch from noon to 2:30 PM. The address is CCD300, Apartment 7, Caochangdi. Due to limited seating, it’s best to make a reservation via 13811535714.
(Panorama photo is courtesy of NomNate while the food and venue photos are courtesy of Bo.)
