Grape Wall of China

A China Wine Blog: The Scene in the World’s Largest Market

A sparkler is haunting China: Karl Marx wine in Beijing

Posted on | March 12, 2010 | No Comments

A sparkler is haunting China

You’d think a wine named “Karl Marx” would be a red, but not so with this one I found haunting the shelves of Jinkelong supermarket in downtown Beijing during the Chinese New Year. The label says it is a semi-dry sparkling, though I have yet to confirm it with a taste test. It might be time to create a page for, uh, atypical labels found in China. See also:

By the way, I realize it has been quite a while since my last post, but some stuff is in the queue, including notes from a recent lunch with Jancis Robinson, an interview with one of the top Champagne distributors in China, quite a few tastings, and more.

Prepare for some glass struggle.

Category: Uncategorized

French Wine Paradox to handle Lanson Champagne in China

Posted on | January 28, 2010 | No Comments

By Jim Boyce

Importer and distributor French Wine Paradox reports that it has signed an agreement to be the exclusive distributor of Lanson Champagne in China. The origins of Lanson date to 1760, though in recent decades ownership has passed through a handful of large corporations, and the house is now headed by Champagne Boizel (see more of Lanson’s history here). French Wine Paradox reports that it will initially carry Lanson’s Black Label and later add the rose and vintages to its portfolio.

Category: Jim Boyce

Mouton Cadet wine bar to open in Guangzhou

Posted on | January 28, 2010 | 1 Comment

By Jim Boyce

Torres China has announced that Baron Philippe de Rothschild will launch the world’s first Mouton Cadet wine bar in restaurant No. 9 Garden in Guangzhou. Torres is the exclusive distributor of Baron Philippe de Rothschild in China and is partly owned by the company.

According to Torres China,  the Mouton Cadet wine bar will have a “similar theme to its wine museum and cellar door in Bordeaux” and that it will be “the first time that dedicated display materials will be showcased outside of its territory in France.”

The first thing I thought of upon hearing the news? This interview I did with Robert Joseph 18 months in which he said: “In 1997, when I was in China, I did comparative tasting of Mouton Cadet with Sprite and without Sprite, and I preferred it with Sprite.”

To each his or her own.

In any case, look for the Mouton Cadet wine bar to open in mid-March.

Category: Jim Boyce

Wine Australia Awards in China: James Halliday to present honors to St. Pierre, Sing, Ford, and Lin today

Posted on | January 26, 2010 | 11 Comments

Award winner Marcus Ford with Australian wine writer James Halliday

By Jim Boyce

Writer James Halliday will announce the winners of the Wine Australia Awards today in Beijing. The winner in each of the four categories — retail; restaurants, bars, and hotels; writing and education; and overall contribution to “the growth of wine and of Australian wine in China” — will receive a ten-day wine study tour in Australia. (Apparently, drinking loads of wine from Down Under doesn’t count as a qualification.) Geoff Raby, Australia’s ambassador to China, hosted an informal dinner last night for Halliday, who will lead a wine master class today, and several of the winners. The awards are being presented on Australia’s national day (for ideas on how to celebrate it in Beijing, see this post).

Overall trophy
Don St. Pierre, Jr, CEO of ASC Fine Wines. St. Pierre was cited for his leadership at ASC and the company’s role in terms of wine education, tastings, and events. For his part, St. Pierre cited the rapid growth of the China market. “If you look at where China was as a wine consumer five years ago, you’d never have believed it would now be Australia’s fourth biggest export market,” he said. To underscore the swift change in China, he cited his father, Don St. Pierre, Sr, who came here in 1986 to work at Beijing Jeep and found only one private car owner in the city. “Now China is the biggest car market in the world,” he said.

Restaurants, bars, and hotels
James Sing, owner and manager of Shanghai-based Kakadu, which focuses on Australian food and drink. Sing said that the rapidly blossoming restaurant scene in Shanghai in 2005 and 2006 meant he and his partners needed to find a niche: they decided on Australia and now provide customers with foods that range from lamb and beef to crocodile and emu as well as a drinks menu that aims to cover the country’s wine regions. “I’m from northern Queensland, so wine is what we do when we run out of beer,” he joked. Sing says Kakadu sources its wines from 18 distributors,  sees significant numbers of expatriate and Chinese customers, and holds tasting events, the most recent of which drew 15o attendees.

Retail
Marcus Ford, national director for The Wine Way. Former restaurant manager at M on the Bund from 1999 to 2009, Ford said the scene has had a long struggle toward a focus on customers. “The culture in Shanghai for many years was that ‘we’ll try to sell you what we’re being paid to sell’.” He said that the success of M gave him leverage with wine distributors and that now, as a retailer, he enjoys giving customers the chance to try samples from the 16-unit machine at The Wine Way. While the operation is backed by Summergate, it includes wines from companies such as ASC and Torres, and brands such as De Bortoli, Grosset, and Henschke.

Writing and education
Dennis Lin: Known throughout the China wine scene, he was unable to attend the dinner last night but is slated to be at the official ceremony today.

I’ll have more on James Halliday’s comments on wine in future posts.

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See also:

Wine Australia will officially announce the four winners of its Wine Australia Awards today — one each will be given in the categories of wine retail; wine writing and education; restaurants, bars, and hotels; and overall contribution to “the growth of wine and of Australian wine in China.” Australian Ambassador Geoff Raby hosted an informal dinner last night for several of the winners as well as for writer James Halliday, who is in town to present the awards and lead a master wine class. The awards, each of which comes with a 10-day wine study trip, are being presented on Australia’s national day — for some ideas on how to celebrate it in Beijing, see this post.

Grand trophy winner: Don St. Pierre, Jr, CEO of ASC Fine Wines. Ally… said St. Pierre, as head of the biggest importer and distributor, had a taken a leadership stance in terms of education, events, and tastings. He cited the rapid growth of the market. “If you look at where China was as a wine consumer five years ago, you’d never have believed it would be Australia’s fourth biggest export market now,” he said. He cited the example of his father, Don St. Pierre, Sr, who came to China in 1986 to work Beijing Jeep and found only one private car owner. “Now it’s the biggest car market in the world.”

Restaurant award winner: James Sing, owner and manager of Kakadu: Australian Food and Drink, in Shanghai.

“I’m from north Queensland, so wine is what we do when we run out of beer,” he joked. He said he decided with several friends in 2004 to open a restaurant. By the time it came to fruition two years later, the restaurant scene was blossoming, and they decided on a need to branch into something unique,–something Australian–hence the focus on foods that range from lamb and beef to crocodile and emu alongside a menu which is more than 90 percent from home. Sing says Kakadu sources its wines from 18 distributors, aims to cover every region in Australia, sees an equal split between expatriates and Chinese in terms of its customers, and holds tasting events, the most recent of which drew 15o attendees.

Retail award winner: Marcus Ford, national director for The Wine Way.

Wine writing and education: Dennis Lin

Said the culture in the restaurant business “culture in Shanghai for many years was that we’ll try to sell you what’s they’re being paid to sell.” They’ll say a wine is not available in order to switch you to another wine… He said that during the decade he worked as restaurant manager at M on the Bund, from 1989 to 1999, the place was successful enough not to need to bow to pressure from distributors. All said that while The Wine Way was supported by Summergate, it also includes wines from companies such as ASC and Torres, and brands such as De Bortoil, Grosset, and Henscke. The wine machine… 16… chance to try something at RMB20 before plunking down RMB700 or more for a bottle.

http://www.grapewallofchina.com/2009/09/30/no-worries-australia-targeting-china-wine-market-at-every-level/

China contest: Wine Australia Awards to provide four trips Down Under

Category: Jim Boyce

Hong Kong sales ahead: First Sotheby’s wine auction of 2010 raises RMB46.5 million

Posted on | January 25, 2010 | No Comments

By Jim Boyce

Last year’s slate of high-profile auctions did a great deal to solidify Hong Kong as a fine wine hub but little to empty the pockets of bidders, it seems. On January 23, auction house Sotheby’s held its first sale of the year in Hong Kong and raked in RMB46.5 million (HKD52.9 million / USD6.78 million), which it reports is its highest total ever for a one-day wine sale. Sotheby’s reports that all lots sold and that online bidders participated in two-thirds of them.

The 10-hour auction saw many new and existing buyers competing from throughout Asia. The auctioneers fielded bids from the room, the telephones, the online bidders and bidders from the secondary sale room that was set up due to the unprecedented demand from clients to attend the sale, while Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs 2003, Haut Brion 1998, Léoville Lascases 1996, Lynch Bages 2000 were served – the Bordeaux were from the 6 litre Imperial format from The Classic Cellar. There was particularly strong participation from collectors and connoisseurs from Hong Kong, Mainland China and Taiwan, who were the most significant buyers of today’s sale.

Bids for Lafite, Latour, Petrus, and Romanee-Conti again led the way. An imperial of Lafite 1982 sold for RMB319,000 (HKD363,000), while 12 bottles of Petrus 2000 sold for RMB361,000 (HKD411,400). The auction was the fourth installment from an American collector. So far the take has totaled RMB158,548,095 (HKD158,548,095 / USD20,326,687). The next installment will be held in Hong Kong, April 3-4.

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Some related Grape Wall posts:

Category: Jim Boyce

Jancis Robinson to visit Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing in February

Posted on | January 8, 2010 | 1 Comment

By Jim Boyce

ASC and wine writer Jancis Robinson will team up for a series of events in China next month, according to a press release from the wine importer and distributor. The ASC press release states (my highlights):

For three nights only in Hong Kong, Shanghai and Beijing, the first lady of wine will divulge the geographical diversity of wine ahead of the mid-year launch of the local edition of her best-selling World Atlas of Wine, co-authored by fellow wine doyen Hugh Johnson. The tome, published in 14 languages and having sold over 4 million copies since its 1971 inception, sees its first simplified Chinese version in 2010.

The breathless text notes that an ” ultra-premium” wine dinner will be held in each city and some of the proceeds will go to Room to Read.

My question: Who is the second lady of wine?

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See also:

Grape Wall Talk: Jancis Robinson on China

Category: Uncategorized

Torres now distributing Tyrrell’s, Francis Ford Coppola, Rubicon Estate wines in China

Posted on | January 8, 2010 | 2 Comments

By Jim Boyce

Torres China has announced that its portfolio now includes Tyrrell’s and Francis Ford Coppola Winery, including the later winery’s Rubicon Estate.  From the press release:

Established in 1858, [Tyrrell's was]… awarded Australian Winery of Year 2009 and Australian Red Winemaker of Year 2009 by Campbell Mattinson, the accolade by Australia’s pre-eminent wine writer and author James Halliday as Australian Winery of Year 2010 has placed Tyrrell’s at the pinnacle of the Australian wine industry.

Owned by Francis Ford Coppola, Francis Ford Coppola Winery is located in Geyserville of Sonoma County and Rubicon Estate is situated in the Rutherford AVA of Napa Valley…. The Rutherford Appellation is at the center of the Napa Valley both geographically and historically.

Torres China will be having launch parties for Francis Ford Coppola Winery and Rubicon Estate from January 29 to February 3 in four cities in China.

Category: Uncategorized

ASC now distributing Peter Lehmann, Hess wines in China

Posted on | January 8, 2010 | No Comments

ASC Fine Wines has added Peter Lehmann and Hess wines to its portfolio in the Chinese mainland as of January 1, according to the company. ASC also includes the wine its Hong Kong and Macau portfolios. According to the company:

Through a loyal partnership with over 160 local grape growers, Peter Lehmann Wines has access to some of the finest of the [Barossa] region’s vineyards to produce wines that have seen the winery twice awarded the title International Winemaker of the Year (2003 and 2006 IWSC London)….

The Hess Collection Winery was founded by Swiss entrepreneur and noted modern art collector Donald Hess. True to his Swiss roots, Hess first purchased vineyards on the volcanic slopes of Mount Veeder, the highest appellation in the Napa Valley, in 1978, and first made wine under The Hess Collection Winery label in 1983.

Peter Lehmann and Hess were previously distributed by Torres.

Category: Uncategorized

Too close for comfort? Great Wall maker COFCO takes over Chinese edition of Food & Wine

Posted on | December 17, 2009 | 1 Comment

COFCO – owner of top-four Chinese winery Great Wall and a major player in boutique operation Chateau Junding - will take over the Chinese edition of Food & Wine, starting with the January edition. According to sources inside and outside Food & Wine, COFCO owns the magazine license for Food & Wine and had been leasing it to the Trends Group. A source at the magazine said the entire management team will shift under COFCO.

No doubt concerns will be raised in coming weeks and months as to what it means that one of the biggest wine-makers in China owns one of the most important sources of wine info. This extends to the blind tastings, an integral part of the monthly magazine, as COFCO is both a maker and importer of wine.

A final note: This seems part of a major shift in the wine marketing and distribution landscape in China. The players, and the stakes, are getting bigger as the local market grows, with COFCO competitors such as Changyu also importing wine and Suntory recently buying a majority share of prominent China-based wine distributor and importer ASC Fine Wines.

I will have more on this shortly…

Category: Uncategorized

Got any loose change? Sotheby’s Hong Kong wine auction in January

Posted on | December 15, 2009 | No Comments

grape wall of china wine auctions sotheby's photo

(Photo: Sotheby's)

By Jim Boyce

The Lafitte-Petrus gravy train looks like it will continue at full speed next year when Sotheby’s holds its first Hong Kong wine auction of 2010 on January 23 at the Mandarin Oriental. The auction, the fourth featuring “The Classic Cellar from A Great American Collector“, is, according to the auction house’s press release, “the most valuable wine collection ever offered at auction by Sotheby’s”. It will include 840 lots and the expected take is RMB25-36 million (HKD28.5-40.8 million / USD3.6-5.2 million). Last year, Sotheby’s held wine auctions in April and October 2009, with a total take of  RMB77.3 million (USD11.3 million).

The 2010 “auction highlights” listed are not surprisingly focused on Bordeaux and Burgundy, particularly the much-sought Lafite and Petrus. Among the lots:

  • Two cases of 1989 and three cases of 1990 Petrus Petrus estimated at RMB141-211000 (HKD160-240,000  / USD20-30,000) per case
  • One 1982 imperial of Lafite estimated at RMB123-176,000 (HKD140-200,000 (USD18-25,000)
  • Two cases of 1982 Latour estimated at RMB123-176,000 (HKD140-200,000 / USD18-25,000) per case
  • Six cases of 1982 Mouton Rothschild estimated at RMB71-106,000 (HKD80-120,000 / USD10-15,000) per case
  • Five cases of 1989 Margaux estimated at RMB75-123,000 (HKD85-140,000 / USD11-18,000) per case
  • Twenty-four half-bottles of 1986 Lafite estimated at RMB62-84,000 (HKD70-95,000 / USD9-12,000) (This auction too late for the winner to use these mini-bottles as stocking stuffers, so perhaps they could be used as gifts for lesser friends during Spring Festival. Then again, maybe not…)

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Some related Grape Wall posts:

Category: Uncategorized

Wining it up in Beijing: Italian wine dinner at Palette; Spanish wine and tapas party at Mosaic

Posted on | December 10, 2009 | No Comments

Just in case you were looking to drink some wine tonight…

Palette Vino, hutong edition, will hold an Italian wine dinner that pairs Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, a Sangiovese-Merlot blend and more with foods such as pan-seared scallops, osso buca, and beef tenderloin. The reception is at 7:15 PM, the dinner at 8 PM (RMB368). Call 6405-4855 to RSVP.

Meanwhile, MPC wines is teaming up with Mosaico for a wine, beer, and tapas party from 7 PM to 10 PM. For RMB60, you get one drink and five tapas, with additional beverages available at a discount. Three wines, including a Cava, and Mahou beer will be featured.

Category: Uncategorized

Suntory Group buys majority share in ASC Fine Wines

Posted on | December 9, 2009 | No Comments

Months of rumors proved to be true as ASC Fine Wines announced today that, subject to approval by China’s anti-monopoly bureau, the Suntory Group will acquire a majority share of the company by purchasing the shares of Wine Holdings Gmbh – an Austrian holding company owned by Langes-Swarovski. ASC co-founder and CEO Don St. Pierre Jr will retain a share and his title. According to a press release, his father, Don St. Pierre Sr, “will officially retire from ASC at the close of this transaction.”

The press release states:

Suntory is one of Asia ’s largest private companies and one it’s most prominent beverage companies, with sales turnover of approximately Euro 11.5 billion. Suntory owns wineries in France and is one of Japan ’s leading wine importers and distributors. Suntory views ASC as a long-term strategic asset and plan s to fully support ASC’s future expansion plan s by offering greater access to lower cost capital for both organic growth and local wine related acquisitions, supply chain management know how, IT expertise and where it makes sense for ASC’s business, to seek economies of scale from common wine suppliers and cooperation with Suntory’s Premium Whiskey and Midori Melon Liqueur portfolio.

ASC has maintained a high profile over the past few years, not only due to year-long rumors of its sale, but also because of a series of ups and downs that included Don St. Pierre, Jr being held by Customs for nearly a month last year, his being listed as one of the most influential people in the global alcohol business, a restructing of the company, and the hosting of the first visit to China by wine writer Robert Parker, which culminated in a dinner on the Great Wall. The St. Pierres were also the subject of a lengthy story that recently appeared in the New Yorker.

Category: Uncategorized

First Spectrum wine auction in Hong Kong raises RMB24 million

Posted on | December 2, 2009 | 1 Comment

First vintage: Could have been yours for RMB1700.

First vintage: Could have been yours for RMB1700.

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By Jim Boyce

Spectrum announced that its first Hong Kong wine auction – held simultaneously at Crown Wine Cellars in Hong Kong and the St. Regis Monarch Beach in California late last month – sold all 686 lots and raised HKD26.8 million (RMB24 million / USD3.5 million).

According to a press release, Burgundy and Bordeaux dominated, with a case of 1962 Romanée-Conti selling for USD109,940 (RMB750,890). A magnum of 1998 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon sold for USD3,883 (RMB26,521). Curiously, a bottle of 1966 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, the first vintage from the vineyard, went for a mere USD200 (RMB1366) – though the Spectrum Web site states the selling price at USD239 (check out the 360-degree image of the bottle).

Spectrum plans another auction on March 20 and 21 (Hong Kong time). For more details or for the results of the auction, see the Spectrum Web site.

Category: Uncategorized

T time: Chateau Lafite vs Chateau Lafitte in China

Posted on | November 30, 2009 | 1 Comment

grape wall of china wine blog chateau lafitte 2007-

By Jim Boyce

Chateau Lafite is insanely popular in China and consumers here should be careful to avoid not only fake bottles, but also mistakenly buying Chateau Lafitte, a separate operation that includes a double-t in its name. Let me be clear: I am not saying there is anything wrong with Chateau Laffite as a wine. Instead, the concern is that some consumers might pay outrageous prices for Lafitte in the belief they are buying the much pricier Lafite. This could not only mean a loss of money but also a loss of face should that Lafitte be given as as a gift to someone who knows the difference. Considering that the label above is being offered to distributors at 5.5 Euros, or about RMB55 per bottles, and adding in transporation costs and duties, you should not be paying more than RMB150 at retail for this one.

Category: Uncategorized

Contrefacons et vols de vins en Chine

Posted on | November 30, 2009 | No Comments

grape wall of china hong kong chateau margaux real of fake

A translation by Nicolas Carre of the post “Fakers, robbers, and wine in China” by Jim Boyce that originally appeared here in English.

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“Des bruits de couloir disent qu’il y a plus de Chateau Lafite 1982 en Chine qu’il n’en a été produit cette année la en France.” – “Wall Street Journal”

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J’ai récemment posté un interview avec Benjamin Wallace, l’auteur du livre «le Vinaigre du Milliardaire» en raison de l’engouement pour les vins rares et exceptionnels à Hong-Kong. Voici 2 histoires supplementaires sur cette réalité…

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Hold up vineux a Hong Kong: le Journal «Wall Street» fait un rapport sur le vol de 228 bouteilles de Château Lafite Rothschild 1982. Valeur estimée a 6.8 millions Hong Kong dollars (USD 877,000):

Plusieurs hommes seraient entrés dans l’entrepôt, apres avoir bâillonné le garde, qui a ensuite pu prévenir la police. Le vol a d’abord été annoncé dans les colonnes du South China Morning Post.

De nos jours, un chateau Lafite 1982 est considéré comme le plus prestigieux des vins en Chine. Les collectionneurs comme les contrefacteurs ont ainsi fait fortune sur ce millesime. À Hong-Kong, une telle bouteille se négocie entre HK$37,000 et HK$48,000.

L’histoire ne dit cependant pas si les vins étaient assurés…

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Les contrefaiteurs ciblent les vins de luxe: l’A.F.P. rapporte que Petrus, Romanee-Conti, Château d’Yquem et bien d’autres vins de prestige sont en ligne de mire des contrefaiteurs:

- D’apres Bernard Magrez, magnat du vin, et propriétaire de 35 domaines, dont plusieurs à Bordeaux, la contrefacon «touche cinq ou six des plus grands chateaux à Bordeaux. Les vins de ces chateaux ont un potentiel réel de plus-value et la demande est mondiale parce que les produits sont rares».

Il semblerait que ce soit sur ces mêmes chateaux que les acheteurs à Hong-Kong portent le plus grand interet. Mais, ce qui est plus intriguant, ce sont tous les vins dans ces ventes aux enchères qui n’ont jamais été produits par les caves mentionnes sur l’étiquette. Si tel est le cas, vous devez vous poser des questions sur la negligeance de certaines maisons de vente aux enchères.

- Selon Laurent Ponsot, producteur renommé de Bourgogne, des Jéroboams (l’équivalent de quatre bouteilles) de la vendange 1945 du domaine de la Romanée-Conti ont récemment été vendu aux enchères. Seul hic, le domaine n’a jamais embouteillé de millésime 1945 en contenance Jéroboam.

- Laurent Ponsot, propriétaire du Domaine Ponsot, a meme personnellement eu quelques mésaventures avec des contrefacteurs. En 2008, lors d’une vente à New York, il fut choqué de découvrir que 106 des 107 bouteilles sur la liste étaient des faux. Le catalogue indiquait une vente de Clos Saint Denis 1945 et autres vieux millésimes «alors nous n’avions commencé à produire cette appellation particulière qu’a partir du millésime 1982» a t-il raconté.

A tous ceux qui dorénavant auraient l’intention d’acheter de tels vins: sachez qu’une petite recherche sur Google, ou quelques coup de fil bien ciblés peuvent vous éviter bien des mésaventures….

Category: Nicolas Carre

Grape Press: Morocco-China wine links, 7-ELEVEN wine, ICCCW in Singapore

Posted on | November 25, 2009 | No Comments

By Jim Boyce

Some China-related wine stuff from the Web…

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Morocco-China wine connection

The BBC reports on Moroccan wine industry ambitions, which includes some mentions of China:

Mehdi Bouchaara, a member of ASPRAM [the Moroccan wine-growers association]… says that Morocco is currently producing 300,000 hectolitres of wine each year, making it one of the most significant in the Arab world.

“At the moment we are in negotiations in China and will shortly be building a bottling factory there. Most of our wine is exported in bulk,” he explains.

“With our Chinese partners we will put it in bottles that bear a Moroccan label.”

The story looks at the history of wine in Morroco (“The first evidence… was in the time of the Phoenicians – the first millennium BC.”), twentieth-century changes (“Until the Treaty of Rome in 1957 banned blending wines, the highly coloured, robust Moroccan wine was shipped back to France in bulk and frequently added as a boost to Gallic wine”), and  investment issues (“buyers have to comply with… a list of responsibilities that include employing a certain number of local people“).

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Sichuan food and Shiraz?

Launched in Beijing last year, the International Congress of Chinese Cuisine & Wine (ICCCW) held its follow-up event in Singapore earlier this month, reports Sommelier India. Organized by Ch’ng Poh Tiong, the ICCCW aims to determine the best wine and Chinese food pairings: “the panelists tasted small, individual servings of several representative dishes from Teochew, Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines at three well known specialist restaurants in Singapore, exploring which characteristics of the wines worked best with the dishes and giving their reasons.”

By the way, Grape Wall remains the only Web site to make wine recommendations for this particular food. (More on last year’s ICCCW event in Beijing here, plus an interview with Ch’ng Poh Tiong here.)

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Corner-store Cabernet?

“In its first foray into global merchandising, 7-Eleven, Inc. (SEI) in the U.S. and Seven-Eleven Japan (SEJ) are jointly introducing two proprietary wines – a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon – today under the Yosemite Road label,” according to a post on franchising.com. More from the post:

Value-priced wines, those under $5, have been gaining in popularity and enjoying double-digit sales growth at 7-Eleven stores as consumers continue to search for value in their purchasing decisions…. Suggested retail price for a standard 750 milliliter bottle is $3.99 in the U.S…. and 598 yen in Japan.

I’m waiting for the Super Big Gulp Grenache and the Shiraz Slurpee to hit my local 7-ELEVEN in Beijing.

Category: Uncategorized

Barossa wines, Beijing, and bare ass: Torbreck wine dinner with Dave Powell

Posted on | November 23, 2009 | No Comments

By Jim Boyce

Rare are those times when a wine maker drops his pants at a tasting  – I would guess it is on par with the frequency of an eclipse, which is an apt comparison given you would not want to stare directly if the sun were being blocked by the  “moon” displayed by Dave Powell of Barossa Valley winery Torbreck during a dinner organized by Links at the Capital Club in Beijing last Tuesday (photo below). Before we get to Powell’s, uh, white full-bodied bottom, here are a few things I learned about him and his wines during the dinner:

Visits: Powell first came to China as a backpacker about 20 years ago and spent three months touring the country, with the stops including Shanghai, Xian, Urumqi, Beijing, and Qingdao. He also once worked as a lumberjack in a forest in Scotland named… Torbreck.

Vines: The oldest he uses date back 158 years. He says these are the world’s third-oldest and that the others are also in the Barossa Valley.

Viticulture: Powell says he doesn’t irrigate his vineyards and instead uses “dry growth” techniques and avoids the use of  “nasty pesticides”. He adds that he prefers French oak to American oak because it complements the wine: “It’s like salt in cooking. It should enhance the food. If you can taste it, there’s too much. It’s the same with oak. In the end, it’s all about the fruit.” And that Robert Parker once described his wines as having one foot in the southern hemisphere and one foot in the northern hemisphere, that is, as being big and rich but having finesses and elegance. “Sure, you’re looking at me in my work boots and jeans and wondering how I can be elegant,” jokes Powell.

Volume: Powell says 15 years ago, he crushed one ton of grapes, now he crushes 1,000 tons.

I tried four of Powell’s wines at the Hilton Food & Wine Experience and enjoyed the Semillon. At the dinner, I preferred the Struie Shiraz 2005, served from a magnum – deep fruit, with some sweet oak, earthiness, and smokiness. It’s a big and round wine, with ample fruit up front. I also enjoyed the Rousanne-Marsannie-Viognier for its vanilla, floral, and tropical fruit smells.

This was the most I have spent – ~RMB700 – on a dinner in a while, but I decided to splurge given the wines, food, and venue, and because Torbreck is among the few wineries I have visited outside of China (more on this soon). Even better value: Links broke out a bottle of Cristal at the end of the night. Nothing like enjoying Champagne and gazing at a full moon…

grape wall of china wine blog torbreck dinner with dave powell at capital club beijing (3)

The story behind this photo: Powell was at a restaurant in Denmark where the owners branded the place’s name on the outdoor furniture to prevent theft. After quite a bit of wine and after watching the sous chef get his arm seared by the red-hot brand, Powell decided to get his own souvenir on a more easily hid part of his body – his ass. He added that he pretty much could not sit down for five days.

Gallery photos, clockwise from top left: Powell strips; Links head Patricio de la Fuente Saez pours Cristal; Powell speaks; de le Fuente Saez and Capital Club GM Betrand Petton introduce Powell.

Category: Uncategorized
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  • Grape Wall Contributors


    In alphabetical order (see full list)


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    Grace Vineyard CEO


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    Huiqin Ma
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