Cheers: Hilton’s Food & Wine Experience celebrates 10 years

Hilton Beijing will mark a decade of decanted debauchery with its tenth annual Food and Wine Experience on November 9 (trade only) and 10 (open to public).

Besides a wide range of wines to taste, the event covers coffee, chocolate, cooking classes, wine seminars with Jeremy Oliver, and more. The public session are from 1-5 PM: it’s 230 kuai, including a brunch buffet, or 1010 kuai for those who also want to attend a gala dinner at 7 PM.

I’ll have more details soon. For now, here’s a snippet - incidentally from my very first e-newsletter – about the first Hilton Food and Wine Experience I attended:

I also looked like a total poseur by writing tasting notes on my little black pad – unfortunately I forgot my turtleneck sweater and Robert Parker book or I could have really stood out. But when you’re going through enough labels to make a deck of cards, you need a way to remember what was good, bad and ugly. It’s funny how my early notes use descriptions like “fruity,” “fresh,” “acidic” and “earthy,” while later ones are more, uh, creative: “hints of Sprite,” “honestly mundane,” “this grape’s got [sic] identity crisis” and “tastes like birch bark” (which I’m pretty sure I’ve never tasted). It’s also funny how you think a wine tastes like, say, birch bark, but then the distributor approaches and says it has “a delicate nose, a full body and a passionate finish” – and you suddenly realize it’s true! (And, in the case of this description, get turned on.) When the same expert points out the “notes of Saskatoon berries,” you swear you can taste them even if you’re never eaten, seen or heard of this fruit, or know where Saskatoon is (it’s in Canada, which at least in this inaugural newsletter, ranks first in wine. Go Grape White North!).

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Last call: 11 countries, 150 wines, 188 kuai

Torres China is organizing “Taste of the Nations” at Traders Hotel Beijing on November 3. The 188-kuai entry fee gets you more than 150 wines from 11 nations, not to mention free appetizers and live performances. Space is limited, so reserve yours by contacting Sophie (5165-5519, extension 208 / sophie@torres.com.cn).

Note: Get more info on the Chinese wine scene – go to Facebook, search “China Wine” and join the group.

New cellar dweller at TRIO

TRIO opened in May of 2006 and included: a reincarnation of Beijing’s oldest non-hotel bar, Frank’s Place, at ground level; a seventy-seat New York grill and piano bar, Park Grill, up top; and the high-end wine-centric The Cellar in, no surprise, the basement.

Frank’s Place is doing fine, with improvements to the deck helping, but The Park Grill and The Cellar have struggled. TRIO management reports the latter has been rented to a Korean company that operates eight wine bars in Seoul under the name Le Cave.

The Cellar was unique to Beijing, with pint-sized suits of armor and wrought-iron doors up front, an arched roof, stucco and brickwork inside, and, for members of Club 88, on-site storage space for 32 bottles. ASC Fine Wines was the sole TRIO wine supplier.The idea behind Club 88: with an 8888 kuai initial investment and 3888 kuai annual fee, members would receive free wine dinners and cooking classes, discounts on wine, and the on-site storage space (lock, key and brass name plate included). The market for this turned out to be smaller than expected and, in this drinker’s humble opinion, a menu where the cheapest bottle was 600 kuai prevented walk-in traffic (dozens of cheaper wines were later added to the menu).

By renting The Cellar to another company, TRIO management can focus on its bread and butter – Frank’s Place – while the new partners provide added marketing and sales power. This might end up being one of those “win-win” situations.

“The result is not that different from the original concept,” says one TRIO investor. “We’ve just teamed up with strategic partners.”

Grape finds: Lufthansa Centre

I popped into the basement supermarket of the Lufthansa Center in Beijing and found a bonanza of booze. In addition to solid imported wine, vodka, gin, sake and whisky selections, the latter including the rarely found (in Beijing) Woodford Reserve Bourbon (561 kuai), it also offered a decent selection of Chinese wines.

Alongside the Great Wall, Dynasty and Fengshou, which included plenty of vintages, at least according to the bottle labels, in the 1990s, there was the fairly hard-to-find Huadong, although no recent vintages. The Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon were both 2000, the Riesling was 2002. A range of Grace Vineyard wines are also available, from the entry-level offerings to the Chairman’s Reserve.

I picked up the Huadong Riesling 2002 (76 kuai) and a Grace Premium Red 2001 for my next blind tasting.

Grace (again): Face, FT, and feedback on five wines

I spotted yet another place selling Grace wines in Beijing – upscale Face has the entry-level Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon for 220 per bottle (about four times retail) and the Tasya’s Reserve (I think it was the Cabernet Sauvignon) for 350 kuai. Face also has Catai Chardonnay at 220 per bottle.

Praise from England as the most recent Financial Times column by Jancis Robinson lists Grace under “Fine wines from unexpected sources”:

Grace, Chairman’s Reserve Merlot/Cabernet 2004.

The finest wine so far made in the country that is already the world’s sixth most important grower of grapevines even though eastern China tends to be a bit too damp and western China a bit too cold for viticulture. This one comes from the middle, south of Beijing.

Finally, a while back Sequoia Café held a tasting of five Grace wines. Here are some comments from 25 fellow imbibers, who range from those in the wine industry to those who enjoy wine as a hobby. I’ve included my own takes.

Chardonnay Premier 2003: “A good basic white with a little bit of fruit”; “I like it, it’s nice”; “That’s a decent Chardonnay”; “It’s got a bit of tartness”; “Tart and short”; “Too old – when it’s too old, you begin to feel too much oak”; “It’s drinkable”; “It’s like a cheap Californian wine, a bit fruity and light, and I like that.” My take: I heard the second bottle was better, but found this one too tart and prefer the entry-level Chardonnay from 2005 and 2006.

Cabernet Sauvignon 2005: “Rename it an exit [rather than an entry-level] wine. I found it a bit insipid”; “It’s a lot better than what else you can get from China for 60 kuai”; “This is the best one tonight.” My take: With some cherry on the nose, this is a light-bodied drinkable wine that offers good value for the price – one of my two favorites on the night.

Cabernet Merlot (I didn’t catch the year; I’ll post it later): “An interesting one – the Cabernet was there but I couldn’t find any Merlot”; “The fragrance is okay, the nose fuller than the Cabernet Sauvignon, but it’s a little bitter in the mouth”. My take: The nose was fruitier than the Cabernet Sauvignon, though the body had less fruit than I expected. This one grew on me and I’ll be giving it another try.

Merlot: (again, I will post the year soon): “Some crispness, but they could’ve done more to get the acid down”; “this one is bad”; “no”. My take: The body was rough and unstructured, making it the least pleasant wine of the night.

Deep Blue: “A bit heftier and bigger [than the others] but it seemed pretty young”; “[A shrug of the shoulders]”; “This one is interesting, there’s a lot going on there”. My take: A fruit-driven nose and body that seems like ilike it needs a few years to mature, it’s bigger on the nose than in the mouth. At RMB 288, it’s not cheap.

I’m a fan of Grace, but I think this tasting would have been better with a more recent Chardonnay and by replacing the Merlot with the Cabernet Franc, one of the winery’s better products.

Variety is the wine of life

A heads up for those in Beijing and looking for some wine education.

Fongyee Walker and Edward Ragg will hold their second seminar on varietals tonight at the Park Plaza Grand Salon — tasting starts at 7 PM, followed by buffet dinner. These seminars are in conjunction with Oxford & Cambridge Club Beijing.

Price: 250RMB. Ticket price includes all wines, detailed English/Chinese tasting sheets and other info as well as dinner in Park Plaza’s Bloo Dining.

Those interested in attending should RSVP to fongyee@cantab.net

A bunch of changes at Grapewallofchina

Just a heads up to readers to expect some changes to this blog in the next month or so. Rather than having one writer (that would be me), grapewallofchina will soon have ten people in the wine industry – whether as makers, distributors, educators, writers or consumers – as contributors. This will give a more comprehensive view of what is going on here in the Middle Kingdom, and, to say the least, a lot is going on.

For those living in Beijing, I’m also working on creating some special wine packages. Say, for example, you want to try some Chinese wines and don’t know where to start. I’ll aim to put together a half-dozen or dozen bottles that you can have delivered to your home – and hopefully with a decent discount.

I am also hoping to put out a regular newsletter on wine in China and am toying, for the long run, with the idea of including bilingual posts (Mandarin / English) and chat rooms.

That’s a lot of stuff, but it’ll be a step-by-step process, starting with having more voices here and with trying to get wines at good prices into the hands of wine lovers out there.

Stay tuned for more on these projects in the next few weeks.

Taste test: Bolongbao and Le Champs D’or

Last Friday’s wine tasting at Sequoia Cafe here in Beijing was a bring-your-own-bottle affair. In addition to assorted bottles from France, Australia, New Zealand and the United States, there were two from China. Here are some notes:

Le Champs D’or: Le Vin Desert de Gobi, 2003

No varietal indicated, but it smelled like a typical Cabernet Sauvignon. This is a drinkable wine, though the body is a little bitter. “They tried to extract too much,” said winemaker Alain Leroux. “It was macerated for too long.” It was fairly light with some nice cherry and red plum. “It’s definitely drinkable, there are no major problems with it,” said one imbiber.

Chateau Bolongbao 2005

This Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot blend had a somewhat woody and syrupy medicinal nose. Some nice, tight fruit in this wine though the woodiness comes through on the tongue. “It’s got a heaviness, it would go with a big piece of meat,” said Paul A, adding “Hmmm, they put this one in oak, didn’t they?”Both wines weigh in at 12.5 percent.

Wine Weekend V: Grapes and Greek gods

I owed myself a weekend of fun for ages and cashed in last Friday, Saturday and Sunday by attending five wine events. Here’s number five:

Sometimes you need to cut your losses. After four fun wine events, I pushed Lady Luck when Sir Campbell T called last Sunday afternoon about a wine auction being held at a new store – Dionysus – in Jianwai Soho. I made a hasty retreat from The Rickshaw, met Sir C, and headed for Soho where, with the help of Cafe Europa‘s Joseph, gained entrance to an open-air event being held in the middle of the complex.

The themes were eclectic – a company named after a Greek god, a backdrop that was a tribute to jazz, an entertainment lineup of classical music acts, a virtual ceiling of traditional Chinese lanterns, and a hint of trailer park America (the plastic lawn furniture). The free wine was… um… not a tribute to Dionysus, let’s just put it that way.

Anyway, I’m not sure if the auction ever happened, as I was more interested in the wine shop, which unfortunately wasn’t quite ready, though I was able to sneak in there with a wine lover named Vic, who bought the first bottle the night before as he watched the inventory being moved in (yes, that was a very long sentence). It was one of those, “I would like a bottle”, “Sorry, not for sale yet”, “[Grabbing one] Oops, I accidentally opened the screw top“, “Um, okay, I guess we have to sell it to you now” deals.

I’ll have more on Dionysus soon, especially since Sir Campbell T says they are bringing in some very nice wine.

Note: Get more info on the Chinese wine scene – go to Facebook, search “China Wine” and join the group.

Previous wine weekend stories:
A grape-stomping time
One year for wine bar
Cabs, quizzes and sauerkraut
Reds, whites and you

Wine-a-thon: 11 countries, 150 wines, 188 kuai

Torres China is organizing “Taste of the Nations” at Traders Hotel Beijing on November 3. The 188-kuai entry fee gets you more than 150 wines from 11 nations, not to mention free appetizers and live performances. Space is limited, so reserve yours by contacting Sophie (5165-5519, extension 208 / sophie@torres.com.cn).

Note: Get more info on the Chinese wine scene – go to Facebook, search “China Wine” and join the group.