Panelists from across China—Beijing, Chengdu, Shanghai, Shenzhen and Wuhan—will team up on September 3 for a free online talk organized by Wine to Asia. It’s a diverse group, including wine bar owners, restaurateurs, educators and more, but with a common denominator—each is defying the general decline of wine in China.
Glass Half Full-Empty
Before I get into details, I recently talked to some industry observers about how China’s market feels like a glass-half-full glass-half-empty scenario.
The glass half-empty? Wine imports and local production are down by over half versus one decade ago. We have seen a long trail of bankrupt importers, distributors, wine bars and wine shops. And with many consumers cautious about spending, and facing a flood of options from beer, spirits and other niches, the future seems murky.
And the glass half-full side? Much of China’s consumption has been about drinking for status rather than pleasure, with big ripe imported reds guzzled bottoms up-style at banquets, business dinners and so on.
But we now see a growing number of people drink for pleasure. White wine sales are taking market share, with New Zealand and Germany–famous for Sauvignon Blanc and for Riesling respectively–ranking among this year’s bigger import winners.
Meanwhile, more local producers are moving from emulating wine styles / regions and creating something distinctly their own. And younger generations have a real curiosity about trying new products.
Yes, the overall market is smaller, but one could argue it is healthier and more promising. We even see more local wines popping up overseas.
I wrote a few months ago about six boutique Chinese producers entering the New York market. Not only are sales going well but these brands did a China wine tour of four Florida cities in July.
China Success Stories
In sum, we can embrace both the glass half-full and glass half-empty mentality. The overall China wine scene is, indeed, dire.
And many say it reflects global trends, although I think we should distinguish between established wine-drinking nations and those like China, which haven’t even reached annual consumption of a liter per capita, and ask what is specifically going wrong. (That’s another story.)
But we can also recognize the good—to seek success stories. Such as those of the members of the “Defying the Downturn” panel, who are finding their own paths in trying times.
Here is the lineup for that Wine to Asia free panel by Wine to Asia, slated for September 3, from 4 PM to 5 PM, China time:
Isabella Ko, restaurateur of wine-centric The Merchants in Beijing and Shanghai, who has begun doing global popups, including one in July with a top Moscow restaurant—she took along some Chinese wines.
Jeuce Huang, founder of Taste Communications and marketing director for Wines of Germany, which has found success with its countrywide Riesling promotions in an era when white wine is gaining market share.
Simon Briens, a Shanghai wine bar veteran, who founded Blaz and Babar on wine street Donghu Road, and just launched Fangdu, which features fine wine and Chinese cuisine.
Educator and bar owner Frank Liu of Feaster+, a company with 15 years of experience in WSET courses as well as casual learning. Liu also founded Bistro Luedi in Wuhan.
And brand manager Joy Gong of Bar Wine Tale in Chengdu, with a portfolio of over 3000 bottles and three branches, each providing a distinct experience for aficionados.
Wine to Asia head Simone Incontro will serve as the moderator.
Five intriguing people. Five unique stories. And some fresh glass-half-full hope for China’s wine scene. If you are interested in joining the panel live, register using the QR code in the poster.
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