Suntory Group buys majority share in ASC Fine Wines
Posted on | December 9, 2009 | No Comments
Months of rumors proved to be true as ASC Fine Wines announced today that, subject to approval by China’s anti-monopoly bureau, the Suntory Group will acquire a majority share of the company by purchasing the shares of Wine Holdings Gmbh – an Austrian holding company owned by Langes-Swarovski. ASC co-founder and CEO Don St. Pierre Jr will retain a share and his title. According to a press release, his father, Don St. Pierre Sr, “will officially retire from ASC at the close of this transaction.”
The press release states:
Suntory is one of Asia ’s largest private companies and one it’s most prominent beverage companies, with sales turnover of approximately Euro 11.5 billion. Suntory owns wineries in France and is one of Japan ’s leading wine importers and distributors. Suntory views ASC as a long-term strategic asset and plan s to fully support ASC’s future expansion plan s by offering greater access to lower cost capital for both organic growth and local wine related acquisitions, supply chain management know how, IT expertise and where it makes sense for ASC’s business, to seek economies of scale from common wine suppliers and cooperation with Suntory’s Premium Whiskey and Midori Melon Liqueur portfolio.
ASC has maintained a high profile over the past few years, not only due to year-long rumors of its sale, but also because of a series of ups and downs that included Don St. Pierre, Jr being held by Customs for nearly a month last year, his being listed as one of the most influential people in the global alcohol business, a restructing of the company, and the hosting of the first visit to China by wine writer Robert Parker, which culminated in a dinner on the Great Wall. The St. Pierres were also the subject of a lengthy story that recently appeared in the New Yorker.
First Spectrum wine auction in Hong Kong raises RMB24 million
Posted on | December 2, 2009 | 1 Comment
First vintage: Could have been yours for RMB1700.
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By Jim Boyce
Spectrum announced that its first Hong Kong wine auction – held simultaneously at Crown Wine Cellars in Hong Kong and the St. Regis Monarch Beach in California late last month – sold all 686 lots and raised HKD26.8 million (RMB24 million / USD3.5 million).
According to a press release, Burgundy and Bordeaux dominated, with a case of 1962 Romanée-Conti selling for USD109,940 (RMB750,890). A magnum of 1998 Screaming Eagle Cabernet Sauvignon sold for USD3,883 (RMB26,521). Curiously, a bottle of 1966 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, the first vintage from the vineyard, went for a mere USD200 (RMB1366) – though the Spectrum Web site states the selling price at USD239 (check out the 360-degree image of the bottle).
Spectrum plans another auction on March 20 and 21 (Hong Kong time). For more details or for the results of the auction, see the Spectrum Web site.
T time: Chateau Lafite vs Chateau Lafitte in China
Posted on | November 30, 2009 | 1 Comment
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By Jim Boyce
Chateau Lafite is insanely popular in China and consumers here should be careful to avoid not only fake bottles, but also mistakenly buying Chateau Lafitte, a separate operation that includes a double-t in its name. Let me be clear: I am not saying there is anything wrong with Chateau Laffite as a wine. Instead, the concern is that some consumers might pay outrageous prices for Lafitte in the belief they are buying the much pricier Lafite. This could not only mean a loss of money but also a loss of face should that Lafitte be given as as a gift to someone who knows the difference. Considering that the label above is being offered to distributors at 5.5 Euros, or about RMB55 per bottles, and adding in transporation costs and duties, you should not be paying more than RMB150 at retail for this one.
Contrefacons et vols de vins en Chine
Posted on | November 30, 2009 | No Comments
A translation by Nicolas Carre of the post “Fakers, robbers, and wine in China” by Jim Boyce that originally appeared here in English.
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“Des bruits de couloir disent qu’il y a plus de Chateau Lafite 1982 en Chine qu’il n’en a été produit cette année la en France.” – “Wall Street Journal”
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J’ai récemment posté un interview avec Benjamin Wallace, l’auteur du livre «le Vinaigre du Milliardaire» en raison de l’engouement pour les vins rares et exceptionnels à Hong-Kong. Voici 2 histoires supplementaires sur cette réalité…
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Hold up vineux a Hong Kong: le Journal «Wall Street» fait un rapport sur le vol de 228 bouteilles de Château Lafite Rothschild 1982. Valeur estimée a 6.8 millions Hong Kong dollars (USD 877,000):
Plusieurs hommes seraient entrés dans l’entrepôt, apres avoir bâillonné le garde, qui a ensuite pu prévenir la police. Le vol a d’abord été annoncé dans les colonnes du South China Morning Post.
De nos jours, un chateau Lafite 1982 est considéré comme le plus prestigieux des vins en Chine. Les collectionneurs comme les contrefacteurs ont ainsi fait fortune sur ce millesime. À Hong-Kong, une telle bouteille se négocie entre HK$37,000 et HK$48,000.
L’histoire ne dit cependant pas si les vins étaient assurés…
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Les contrefaiteurs ciblent les vins de luxe: l’A.F.P. rapporte que Petrus, Romanee-Conti, Château d’Yquem et bien d’autres vins de prestige sont en ligne de mire des contrefaiteurs:
- D’apres Bernard Magrez, magnat du vin, et propriétaire de 35 domaines, dont plusieurs à Bordeaux, la contrefacon «touche cinq ou six des plus grands chateaux à Bordeaux. Les vins de ces chateaux ont un potentiel réel de plus-value et la demande est mondiale parce que les produits sont rares».
Il semblerait que ce soit sur ces mêmes chateaux que les acheteurs à Hong-Kong portent le plus grand interet. Mais, ce qui est plus intriguant, ce sont tous les vins dans ces ventes aux enchères qui n’ont jamais été produits par les caves mentionnes sur l’étiquette. Si tel est le cas, vous devez vous poser des questions sur la negligeance de certaines maisons de vente aux enchères.
- Selon Laurent Ponsot, producteur renommé de Bourgogne, des Jéroboams (l’équivalent de quatre bouteilles) de la vendange 1945 du domaine de la Romanée-Conti ont récemment été vendu aux enchères. Seul hic, le domaine n’a jamais embouteillé de millésime 1945 en contenance Jéroboam.
- Laurent Ponsot, propriétaire du Domaine Ponsot, a meme personnellement eu quelques mésaventures avec des contrefacteurs. En 2008, lors d’une vente à New York, il fut choqué de découvrir que 106 des 107 bouteilles sur la liste étaient des faux. Le catalogue indiquait une vente de Clos Saint Denis 1945 et autres vieux millésimes «alors nous n’avions commencé à produire cette appellation particulière qu’a partir du millésime 1982» a t-il raconté.
A tous ceux qui dorénavant auraient l’intention d’acheter de tels vins: sachez qu’une petite recherche sur Google, ou quelques coup de fil bien ciblés peuvent vous éviter bien des mésaventures….
Grape Press: Morocco-China wine links, 7-ELEVEN wine, ICCCW in Singapore
Posted on | November 25, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
Some China-related wine stuff from the Web…
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The BBC reports on Moroccan wine industry ambitions, which includes some mentions of China:
Mehdi Bouchaara, a member of ASPRAM [the Moroccan wine-growers association]… says that Morocco is currently producing 300,000 hectolitres of wine each year, making it one of the most significant in the Arab world.
“At the moment we are in negotiations in China and will shortly be building a bottling factory there. Most of our wine is exported in bulk,” he explains.
“With our Chinese partners we will put it in bottles that bear a Moroccan label.”
The story looks at the history of wine in Morroco (“The first evidence… was in the time of the Phoenicians – the first millennium BC.”), twentieth-century changes (“Until the Treaty of Rome in 1957 banned blending wines, the highly coloured, robust Moroccan wine was shipped back to France in bulk and frequently added as a boost to Gallic wine”), and investment issues (“buyers have to comply with… a list of responsibilities that include employing a certain number of local people“).
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Launched in Beijing last year, the International Congress of Chinese Cuisine & Wine (ICCCW) held its follow-up event in Singapore earlier this month, reports Sommelier India. Organized by Ch’ng Poh Tiong, the ICCCW aims to determine the best wine and Chinese food pairings: “the panelists tasted small, individual servings of several representative dishes from Teochew, Sichuan and Cantonese cuisines at three well known specialist restaurants in Singapore, exploring which characteristics of the wines worked best with the dishes and giving their reasons.”
By the way, Grape Wall remains the only Web site to make wine recommendations for this particular food. (More on last year’s ICCCW event in Beijing here, plus an interview with Ch’ng Poh Tiong here.)
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“In its first foray into global merchandising, 7-Eleven, Inc. (SEI) in the U.S. and Seven-Eleven Japan (SEJ) are jointly introducing two proprietary wines – a Chardonnay and a Cabernet Sauvignon – today under the Yosemite Road label,” according to a post on franchising.com. More from the post:
Value-priced wines, those under $5, have been gaining in popularity and enjoying double-digit sales growth at 7-Eleven stores as consumers continue to search for value in their purchasing decisions…. Suggested retail price for a standard 750 milliliter bottle is $3.99 in the U.S…. and 598 yen in Japan.
I’m waiting for the Super Big Gulp Grenache and the Shiraz Slurpee to hit my local 7-ELEVEN in Beijing.
Barossa wines, Beijing, and bare ass: Torbreck wine dinner with Dave Powell
Posted on | November 23, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
Rare are those times when a wine maker drops his pants at a tasting – I would guess it is on par with the frequency of an eclipse, which is an apt comparison given you would not want to stare directly if the sun were being blocked by the “moon” displayed by Dave Powell of Barossa Valley winery Torbreck during a dinner organized by Links at the Capital Club in Beijing last Tuesday (photo below). Before we get to Powell’s, uh, white full-bodied bottom, here are a few things I learned about him and his wines during the dinner:
Visits: Powell first came to China as a backpacker about 20 years ago and spent three months touring the country, with the stops including Shanghai, Xian, Urumqi, Beijing, and Qingdao. He also once worked as a lumberjack in a forest in Scotland named… Torbreck.
Vines: The oldest he uses date back 158 years. He says these are the world’s third-oldest and that the others are also in the Barossa Valley.
Viticulture: Powell says he doesn’t irrigate his vineyards and instead uses “dry growth” techniques and avoids the use of “nasty pesticides”. He adds that he prefers French oak to American oak because it complements the wine: “It’s like salt in cooking. It should enhance the food. If you can taste it, there’s too much. It’s the same with oak. In the end, it’s all about the fruit.” And that Robert Parker once described his wines as having one foot in the southern hemisphere and one foot in the northern hemisphere, that is, as being big and rich but having finesses and elegance. “Sure, you’re looking at me in my work boots and jeans and wondering how I can be elegant,” jokes Powell.
Volume: Powell says 15 years ago, he crushed one ton of grapes, now he crushes 1,000 tons.
I tried four of Powell’s wines at the Hilton Food & Wine Experience and enjoyed the Semillon. At the dinner, I preferred the Struie Shiraz 2005, served from a magnum – deep fruit, with some sweet oak, earthiness, and smokiness. It’s a big and round wine, with ample fruit up front. I also enjoyed the Rousanne-Marsannie-Viognier for its vanilla, floral, and tropical fruit smells.
This was the most I have spent – ~RMB700 – on a dinner in a while, but I decided to splurge given the wines, food, and venue, and because Torbreck is among the few wineries I have visited outside of China (more on this soon). Even better value: Links broke out a bottle of Cristal at the end of the night. Nothing like enjoying Champagne and gazing at a full moon…
The story behind this photo: Powell was at a restaurant in Denmark where the owners branded the place’s name on the outdoor furniture to prevent theft. After quite a bit of wine and after watching the sous chef get his arm seared by the red-hot brand, Powell decided to get his own souvenir on a more easily hid part of his body – his ass. He added that he pretty much could not sit down for five days.
Gallery photos, clockwise from top left: Powell strips; Links head Patricio de la Fuente Saez pours Cristal; Powell speaks; de le Fuente Saez and Capital Club GM Betrand Petton introduce Powell.
Value vino: Some of Beijing’s best wine buys under RMB100
Posted on | November 23, 2009 | 1 Comment
Note: The following post recently appeared in Agenda magazine in Beijing (see online version here).
By Jim Boyce
Beijing stores shelves are lined with hundreds of imported wines that retail for less than RMB100 [USD16 / 10 Euros]. Choice is certainly not a problem, although deciding which wines are best is not always easy. This is especially true when it comes to making recommendations to Chinese consumers because so little research has been done on which wines they tend to like.
Given this, I teamed up with local sommelier Nicolas Carre and consultant Frankie Zhao, two fellow contributors to the Grape Wall of China blog, to hold a wine contest [called The Grape Wall Challenge] earlier this year. Our goal was simple: To ask panels of Chinese wine consumers and professionals to blind taste about forty imported wines priced at less than RMB100. (We asked local wine distributors to provide up to four wines each – two red and two white.) Our process was also simple: We asked the judges to put each wine into one of four categories – “I love it,” “I like it,” “I dislike it” or “I hate it.”
The professionals gravitated toward grape varieties that are common worldwide, picking Cedar Creek Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Australia (sold by Top Cellar for RMB92) as the top red, while Concha y Toro Frontera Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Chile (Summergate, RMB79) and Bushman’s Gully Semillon-Chardonnay 2008 from Australia (Links, RMB92) tied as the top white wines.
This isn’t the case for consumers. They tended toward less commonly found wines and chose Zonin Terre Palladiane Soave from Italy (Torres, RMB96) as the top white and Foot of Africa Pinotage 2006 from South Africa (Torres, RMB99) as the top red, alongside Paso del Sol Merlot 2007 from Chile (DT Asia, RMB95).
What does this all suggest? That taste is subjective and that consumers do not necessarily like the same things as experts: not exactly groundbreaking findings, but important to point out. More interesting is that both the professionals and consumers scored white wines much higher than red wines, which is surprising given that more than 80 percent of the wine sold in China is red.
Other [high-scoring] reds include Callia Alta Shiraz-Malbec 2007 from Argentina (Torres, RMB72) and Concha y Toro Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Chile (Summergate, RMB79); while whites are represented by Farmese Primo Malvasia 2007 from Italy (ASC, RMB92), Stella Solaris Chardonnay 2006 from Chile (Top Cellar, RMB62), and Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from Chile (ASC, RMB93).
Perhaps your best bet is to buy some of these wines and do your own tasting. After all, it is hard to go wrong at these prices. And if you wish to add a few more, you can try some of other top red and white wines from our contest, as determined by the combined scores of the professionals and consumers [see here].
Our next contest will focus on Chinese wines, specifically those made with grapes grown in China, since many domestic companies blend in bulk wine from Chile, Argentina, Australia, and elsewhere. In the meantime, if you are hankering to try some of the local product, your best bets are Grace Vineyard, from the north-central province of Shanxi, and Silver Heights, from the northwestern region of China. Both are distributed by Torres China.
The Grace entry-level Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon retail for about RMB60 and are among the few value-for-money Chinese wines in the market. Much better is the Premium Chardonnay, at just over RMB100, the Tasya’s Reserve series, including the Cabernet Franc and the Cabernet Sauvignon, which retail for just under RMB200, and the “Symphony” Muscat that a joint team from Grace and Torres in Spain produced last year. Grace wines are also available in many hotels, restaurants, and bars in Beijing.
Silver Heights is a newcomer that is showing great potential. These wines are more expensive, starting from RMB200, and are available online from Torres China.
Finally, to go even more local, Dragon Seal sources its grapes from just outside Beijing, in Hebei Province. While the resulting wines can be inconsistent, this is due less to the wine-maker and more to the quality of the grapes. There are several decent Dragon Seal wines available for about RMB75, while the Hualai Reserve [Cabernet Sauvignon] is a better but pricier bet at about RMB220.
[Note: I would also add Helan Mountain wines to the list. I tried them yet again at the recent Hilton Food & Wine Experience and would put them on a par with Dragon Seal - a bit inconsistent but worth a try.]
Given this, I teamed up with local sommelier Nicolas Carre and consultant Frankie Zhao, two fellow contributors to the Grape Wall of China blog, to hold a wine contest earlier this year. Our goal was simple: To ask panels of Chinese wine consumers and professionals to blind taste about forty imported wines priced at less than RMB 100. (We asked local wine distributors to provide up to four wines each – two red and two white.) Our process was also simple: We asked the judges to put each wine into one of four categories – “I love it,” “I like it,” “I dislike it” or “I hate it.”
The professionals gravitated toward grape varieties that are common worldwide, picking Cedar Creek Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Australia (sold by Top Cellar for RMB 92) as the top red, while Concha y Toro Frontera Sauvignon Blanc 2007 from Chile (Summergate, RMB 79) and Bushman’s Gully Semillon-Chardonnay 2008 from Australia (Links, RMB 92) tied as the top white wines.
This isn’t the case for consumers. They tended toward less commonly found wines and chose Zonin Terre Palladiane Soave from Italy (Torres, RMB 96) as the top white and Foot of Africa Pinotage 2006 from South Africa (Torres, RMB 99) as the top red, alongside Paso del Sol Merlot 2007 from Chile (DT Asia, RMB 95).
What does this all suggest? That taste is subjective and that consumers do not necessarily like the same things as experts: not exactly groundbreaking findings, but important to point out. More interesting is that both the professionals and consumers scored white wines much higher than red wines, which is surprising given that more than 80 percent of the wine sold in China is red.
Other reds include Callia Alta Shiraz-Malbec 2007 from Argentina (Torres, RMB 72) and Concha y Toro Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 from Chile (Summergate, RMB 79); while whites are represented by Farmese Primo Malvasia 2007 from Italy (ASC, RMB 92), Stella Solaris Chardonnay 2006 from Chile (Top Cellar, RMB 62), and Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2008 from Chile (ASC, RMB 93).
Perhaps your best bet is to buy some of these wines and do your own tasting. After all, it is hard to go wrong at these prices. And if you wish to add a few more, you can try some of other top red and white wines from our contest, as determined by the combined scores of the professionals and consumers.
Our next contest will focus on Chinese wines, specifically those made with grapes grown in China, since many domestic companies blend in bulk wine from Chile, Argentina, Australia, and elsewhere. In the meantime, if you are hankering to try some of the local product, your best bets are Grace Vineyard, from the north-central province of Shanxi, and Silver Heights, from the northwestern region of China. Both are distributed by Torres China.
The Grace entry-level Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon retail for about RMB 60 and are among the few value-for-money Chinese wines in the market. Much better is the Premium Chardonnay, at just over RMB 100, the Tasya’s Reserve series, including the Cabernet Franc and the Cabernet Sauvignon, which retail for just under RMB 200, and the “Symphony” Muscat that a joint team from Grace and Torres in Spain produced last year. Grace wines are also available in many hotels, restaurants, and bars in Beijing.
Silver Heights is a newcomer that is showing great potential. These wines are more expensive, starting from RMB 200, and are available online from Torres China.
Finally, to go even more local, Dragon Seal sources its grapes from just outside Beijing, in Hebei Province. While the resulting wines can be inconsistent, this is due less to the wine-maker and more to the quality of the grapes. There are several decent Dragon Seal wines available for about RMB 75, while the Hualai Reserve is a better but pricier bet at about RMB 220.
Rough and tumble in China: The New Yorker profiles ASC Fine Wines’ Don St. Pierre, Sr.
Posted on | November 20, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
The New Yorker just published a lengthy article by Evan Osnos about ASC Fine Wines founder Don St. Pierre, Sr and his son Don St. Pierre, Jr. In it, St. Pierre, Sr comes off as a profanity-uttering, rough-and-tumble, take-no-prisoners businessman. Based on my experience, much of the language is vintage St. Pierre – I have heard it firsthand in several confrontations with him. On the other hand, while St. Pierre can be intense, there is a steep learning curve when talking to him about the wine business and few people respond to emails as quickly – English writer Jancis Robinson is another who comes to mind – even if the topic is unpleasant.
While the article is titillating as a personality profile, and includes fascinating statistics and anecdotes, I find it a bit thin because it does not explain how ASC rose to prominence, nor – given its portrayal of St. Pierre, Sr as ruthless – include a single negative comment from a competitor aka enemy. It generally focuses on the late 1990s – an ASC wine-and-necktie gift pack promotion that started with a run of 200 and ended up selling hundreds of times more; an investment from Gernot Langes-Swarovski, of the Austrian crystal-making family, that gave ASC the capital to expand – and on the nearly one-month detention of Don St. Pierre Jr by Customs in 2008. There is precious little about what happened in between that resulted in ASC growing from a struggling company to the most prominent in China in the wine importing and distribution business.
In fact, there is more about a 1995 raid by U.S. officials of a stock of 74 million bullets imported there by the St. Pierres, before they ever got into the wine business. (The government dropped the case when it found the ammo had been legally brought in.) This makes for interesting material, as does the author’s experiences at a wine dinner and a wine education class, and obviously a great deal of research went into the piece. But, again, the question lingering in the air is how ASC succeeded. I’ll have more about this on Monday. For now, here are a few excerpts from the subscription-only article (I typed them in, so any typos, as well as the highlights, are mine):
Donald St. Pierre, Sr., founded A.S.C. Wines in Beijing in 1996, in partnership with his son, Donald St. Pierre, Jr., whom everyone calls Don, Jr. The St. Pierres were not winemakers or sommeliers. The elder St. Pierre, who had spent his early years in the automobile business, in Detroit and Beijing and elsewhere, was more of a “hot-dog-and-bourbon type,” as a former colleague put it. But they knew sales. In 1989, four years after St. Pierre arrived in the country, Jim Mann, a former Beijing bureau chief for the Los Angeles Times, pronounced him “probably the single best-known businessman working in China.” Over the years, the St. Pierres had sold, or considered selling, baby products, gas masks, photocopiers, golf gloves, scrap metal, lingerie, sugar, pistachios, and Chinese and Russian ammunition.
From further in the story:
When I joined St. Pierre at the [members-only Capital Club] recently, nearly everyone who passed by stopped to greet him. “Look at that assh0le!” he replied with a smile, his version of high praise. St. Pierre’s comfort with confrontation extends to his only hobby: golf. At a charity golf tournament in 1997, St. Pierre accused a rival foursome of cheating. The team composed of senior Communist Party officials, including a high-ranking military general and the chairman of a large arms manufacturer. St. Pierre’s friends urged him to back off, but not before St. Pierre had waved his finger and said, “You fuck off. You’re a cheater!” (His protests persuaded tournament officials to give his team a share of the winnings.) I asked St. Pierre if he thought he had ever been too aggressive. He frowned. “What does that mean? ‘Too aggressive.’ Do you like to kill your competitors or don’t you?”
His tactics have made A.S.C. China’s largest wine importer, with annual revenues of more than seventy million dollars. Jancis Robinson, a prominent wine critic in London, wrote that the St. Pierres have attained “a position in the Chinese wine scene similar to that of the Gallos in the U.S.“
And a final one:
On April 8, 2008, twenty-eight days after Don, Jr. was detained [by Customs], he was released. A.S.C. acknowledged a limited number of undervaluations, he says, and it agreed to pay back-duties and fees totaling 1.8 million yuan–about two hundred and sixty-four thousand dollars, a relatively small sum, given the company’s volume of imports. Don, Jr., was never charged with a crime. He says that A.S.C. made technical mistakes that grew out of the fluctuating values of fine wine and foreign currencies. “We were hedging Euros against dollars, and sometimes we did it right and sometimes we did it wrong,” he told me…
The wine investigation widened, and by the end of 2008 it had let to punishment in twenty-nine cases, on wine valued at twenty-five million dollars, according to a report in Legal Daily, a state-run paper. Companies were accused of doctoring invoices and “laundering documents” through Hong Kong, where there are no tariffs on wine imports. The St. Pierres did none of that, Don, Jr., says. But the case was “a wake-up call,” he told me one afternoon at his apartment in Shanghai. “No one sits you down and says, ‘You’ve arrived in China. These are the laws.’ Because people just don’t think they apply to them! And they do now.”
Note: While he was researching this piece, I talked to Osnos several times by phone re the St. Pierres and wine in China.
Grape Press: Fakers, robbers, and wine in China
Posted on | November 19, 2009 | 1 Comment
From a Hong Kong cellar: Real or fake?
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People in the wine business here say there is more ’82 Lafite in China than was ever produced that year in France. – Wall Street Journal
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By Jim Boyce
One reason I recently posted an exchange with Benjamin Wallace, author of Billionaire’s Vinegar, is because of the massive – and growing – amount of fine and rare wine in Hong Kong. A few stories this week riff on that reality.
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The Great Hong Kong Wine Heist: The Wall Street Journal reports on the theft of 228 bottles of the much sought after 1982 Chateau Lafite Rothschild, worth HKD6.8 million / USD877,000, according to police.
Apparently, several men surreptitiously entered the warehouse, tying up and gagging a guard, who later phoned police. The theft was first reported in the South China Morning Post….
These days, ’82 Lafite represents the height of wine prestige in China. Collectors and counterfeiters alike have made a mint on the hefty sums this particular brand and year can command. In Hong Kong, a bottle goes for anywhere between HK$37,000 and HK$48,000.
Interesting story, but one angle not covered that seems highly relevant: Whether or not the wines were insured.
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Counterfeiters target luxury wines: AFP reports that Petrus, Romanee-Conti, Chateau d’Yquem, and other wines are being targeted by counterfeiters:
The counterfeiting “touches five to six of the very top wine estates in Bordeaux where there is a real potential to make a capital gain and where there is a world-wide demand because the products are rare,” said wine tycoon Bernard Magrez, owner of 35 estates, including several in Bordeaux.
These tend to be the same estates that draw a massive amount of attention from buyers in Hong Kong. What is especially intriguing is wines showing up in auctions and sales that were never produced by the wineries listed on the label. If this is the case, you have to wonder about the lack of due diligence by some auction houses. A few cases noted in the article (my highlights):
Jeroboams, the equivalent of four bottles, of the 1945 vintage from [Romanee-Conti] have recently been sold in auctions, according to Laurent Ponsot, a renowned Burgundy producer. Alas, Romanee-Conti did not bottle their 1945 in Jeroboams.
Ponsot, owner of Domaine Ponsot, has had his own misadventures with counterfeiters. At a sale in New York in 2008, the vintner was shocked to discover that “106 bottles out of 107″ were fakes. The catalogue listed “a sale of Clos Saint Denis 1945 and other old vintages when we didn’t even begin producing this particular appellation until 1982,” he recounted.
Perhaps those intending to buy such wines are best doing some Googling or making some phone calls themselves…
Beaujolais Nouveau in Beijing: Get your plonk at these parties…
Posted on | November 19, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
The third Thursday of November is upon us and that means Beaujolais Nouveau parties (see here for more on this phenomenon). Get your plonk at one of these parties:
- Le Baie des Anges: Beaujolais Nouveau at RMB40 per glass or RMB200 per bottle.
- French Cultural Center: Beaujolais Nouveau, alongside other French wines, including Champagne, as well as live music and food from Le Petit Gourmand; 7:30 PM to 10:30 PM; RMB130.
- Enoteca: Complimentary buffet, live music, and Beaujolais Nouveau at RMB200 per bottle, from 8 PM.
Also of note:
- Scarlett: Beaujolias Nouveau party tomorrow, the 20th, from 7 PM; wine with a cold cut and cheese buffet; RMB218.
- Le Petit Gourmand: Week-long special starting tomorrow; glass of Gamay wine plus cold cut and cheese plate for RMB99 (RMB128 with two glasses). The wine is available at RMB35 per glass or RMB150 per bottle.
BYOB? Obama, Nixon, wine, and Chinese state dinners
Posted on | November 19, 2009 | 4 Comments
"It's *supposed* to have bubbles!"
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By Jim Boyce
This post at Obama Foodorama reports that China President Hu Jintao hosted U.S. President Barack Obama at a state dinner earlier this week and served him both red and white Great Wall 2002 wines. Does that count as an assassination attempt? (Kidding, just kidding). In any case, the leaders ate “Chinese-style beef steak” and roast grouper while listening to current hits such as “We Are the World” and “I Just Called to Say I Love You”, before heading off for a night of baijiu shots and KTV.
Quite a shift from 1972, when Richard Nixon visited. At a state dinner with Zhou Enlai, it was Nixon who provided the wine. From the wine blog Dr. Vino:
Hugh [Davies of Schramsberg], 42, told me that in 1972, his dad, Jack, got word from the Nixon White House that they would need 13 cases of Schramsberg 1969 blanc de blanc. And those cases had to be delivered to Travis Air Force Base. Hugh said that it was all a bit mysterious but his dad loaded up the cases into his jeep, drove them over to the Base where he got paid and left the wine.
Then three weeks later, images of Nixon’s historic trip to China were broadcast back to the US. And there was good old Nixon raising a glass of Schramsberg with Premier Zhou En Lai in a “toast to peace.” Hugh said that Barbara Walters reported from Tiananmen Square that Nixon and Zhou had just toasted with the Schramsberg “blank de blank.” Thirteen cases must have kept the whole delegation happy!
Now, instead of U.S. Presidents bringing their own wine to China, they are getting a taste of the local grapes, assuming those Great Walls aren’t among the Chinese bottles that also include bulk Chilean, Australian, or other wines…
(Big hat tip to Mr Miyagi)
Hong Kong wine auction: Spectrum to sell 200 lots from Aubrey McClendon collection
Posted on | November 16, 2009 | 1 Comment
By Jim Boyce
California-based Spectrum Wine Auctions will hold its first event in Hong Kong – with more than 200 lots from the collection of Aubrey McClendon – at Crown Wine Cellars at 9 AM on November 22. This is the latest event that affirms Hong Kong as a top-three auction site along with New York and London.
The items up for grabs, as listed in a press release from Spectrum, include 1945 Latour, 1959 Lafite Rothschild, and six-liter bottles of 1982 Cheval Blanc and 1989 Haut Brion, as well as Chateau Mouton Rothschild in every format from 750ml to imperial (six-liter) bottles. It also notes some unexpected items: “One interesting lot in particular is Lot #665–a single 750ml bottle of 1966 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon; the vineyard’s very first vintage… The estimate? A mere $50 to own a piece of history.”
Each lot includes a single estimated selling price rather than a range of prices. The catalog is available here. For more information on the auction, call 888-982-1982.
Le monde du vin: Julia Zhu, sommelière au Hilton à Pékin
Posted on | November 16, 2009 | No Comments
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Translation by Nicolas Carre
Julia Zhu, sommelière au Hilton Chaoyang à Beijing, a fait ses armes au Canada, où elle a exercé durant trois années au Hilton Toronto. Cette jeune fille originaire du Helongjiang est diplomé de l’Association Canadienne de Sommelerie. Jim Boyce lui a posé quelques questions sur le vin en Chine…
Comment est né votre intérêt pour le vin, et qu’est ce qui vous a décidé à choisir le métier de sommelier?
Je suis très enthousiasmé par le développement de l’industrie du vin. Bien que cette année soit particulière et que nous observons plutot une baisse des ventes, la tendance à la croissance est claire, particulièrement sur le marché des vins chinois qui, pour moi, a un énorme potentiel. Comme tous les professionnels dans ce secteur, nous avons la passion du vin et nos carrières sont liées a son marché.
J’ai décidé de devenir sommelière en étudiant le vin à Toronto. Je travaillais alors dans un restaurant gastronomique où les vins étaient très accessibles. Ce monde du vin m’intriguait beaucoup, en cours comme dans la vie courante, ce qui m’a naturellement décidé à poursuivre mes études dans le domaine.
Vous animez un club de vin hebdomadaire à Pekin. Quelles sont vos trois scéances préférées jusqu’ici?
L’objectif dans ce club de vin n’est pas seulement de promouvoir un produit comme dans bien d’autres dégustations. Nous y intégrons également une connaissance générale sur les vins que nous dégustons. Ma scéance préférée jusqu’ici est une dégustation de vins de Bourgogne avec un Perle de Crémant Brut NV (Louis Bouillot), Pouilly Fuissé 2007 (Bouchard Ainé et Fils), Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006 (Jean Claude Boisset), Pinot Noir 2005 et Gevrey Chambertin 2005 et la fameuse vodka «Idol».
J’ai également bien aimé la dégustation de Penfolds avec notamment un Koonunga Hill “Seventy Six” Shiraz Cabernet 2006, Shiraz 2006 Thomas Hyland, Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2003, Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2006 et RWT 2004. La dégustation des vins Italiens Antinori, les chardonnays de Californie et la dégustation de Cabernets étaient aussi des grands moments.
Beaucoup de chinois achètent des vins de Bordeaux pour l’image qu’ils représentent ici. Mais, quels vins pensez-vous qu’ils préfèrent vraiment en matière de gout?
La majorité des consommateurs chinois que je connais ou que j’ai eu l’occasion de rencontrer pensent que les vins du Nouveau Monde, comme ceux de l’Australie, du Chili, d’Argentine et d’Afrique du Sud, sont tendances et faciles de boire. Je pense en fait qu’au début – et les chinois débutent dans l’art de la dégustation – ils préfèrent des vins plus fruités avec du corps, des vins moins acides, moins secs et surtout pas trop compliqués.
Quelles sont vos impressions sur le vin produit en Chine? Et quels sont vos préférés?
En terme de viti-viniculture moderne, la Chine en est encore à ses premiers balbutiements, mais on peut discuter sur l’histoire de cette industrie, son évolution, sa technologie, etc…. À mon avis, ca nous laisse plus d’opportunites pour établir un bon règlement gouvernemental, améliorer la gestion des vignobles, les méthodes de production, etc… Nous nous rendons compte aussi que nous devons faire face à bien plus de défis que beaucoup d’autres pays producteurs de vins. J’ai eu l’occasion de déguster des vins monocépages comme le Cabernet Franc de chez Grace Vineyard et je les ai trouvé concentrés et intéressants, mais je n’ai pas encore de favori…
Quelle est votre plus belle expérience en matière de vins depuis votre arrivée dans la capitale chinoise?
J’ai débarqué à Pékin il y a tout juste une année, donc ma plus belle expérience ne remonte pas à si loin… mais, je pense à l’evènement DRC avec la dégustation de sept Grands Crus du millésime 2005: un Echezeaux, Grand-Echezeau, Romanée st. Vivant, Richeburg, Tache La, Romanée-Conti et Montrachet.
Quel est le programme du «Food & Wine experience» organisé par le Hilton?
Ce sera l’occasion de découvrir plus de mille vins du monde entier, de participer à des animations culinaires et à des séminaires avec, entre autre, le célèbre critique Australien Jeremy Oliver. Nous organiserons également un tasting avec des récompenses à la clef, une véritable vente aux enchères de vins fins et une autre plus «fun». Le mieux est de venir voir par vous-meme…
China, Thomas Jefferson, and fake wine? Benjamin Wallace, author of Billionaire’s Vinegar
Posted on | November 13, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
USD156,000 is a lot for a bottle of wine. But such is the amount a 1787 Chateau Lafitte - then spelled with two t’s – fetched at auction in 1985. The source: a collector named Hardy Rodenstock who said he found the bottle in a Paris basement and that it – engraved with the initials “Th. J.” – was ordered by Thomas Jefferson. Given that Hong Kong is a hot spot for rare and fine wines, it seems appropriate China’s bookshops will soon stock Billionaire’s Vinegar by Benjamin Wallace, which looks at this and other bottles supplied by Rodenstock, and at concerns raised over their authenticity. I asked Wallace about his book and about fake wines in general.
Your book casts doubt not only on the “Thomas Jefferson” bottles, but also on many others, from 19th-century Bordeaux to large-format Petrus from the first half of the 20th century. Given the importance of Hong Kong for auctions and private sales of rare and fine wines, how much risk do buyers there face in getting suspect bottles?
As always, the operative phrase is caveat emptor. I think it’s safe to say that the older and rarer the bottle, the more risky it is. I would be extremely suspicious of anything from the 18th century. I would be extremely suspicious of any Petrus in large formats from before World War II. And I would be extremely suspicious of such extraordinary cult rarities as the 1947 Cheval Blanc or the 1900 Margaux or the 1865 Lafite or the 1811 Yquem.
What three pieces of evidence most convince you that the 1787 bottles are fake? What is the status of lawsuits involving buyers and sellers of these wines?
The question I like to ask is: What evidence is there that they are authentic? But, since you’re the one asking the questions:
- The combination of chateaux and vintages supposedly found in the original cache — Mouton, Lafite, Margaux, and Yquem, from the 1784 and 1787 vintages — simply do not tally with Jefferson’s meticulous and thorough records.
- In the early 1990s, a government laboratory in Germany radiocarbon-tested the wine in one of the Jefferson bottles and found that it dated from 1963; in late 1992, a Munich court found that Rodenstock had “adulterated the wine or knowingly offered adulterated wine“.
- Tool-mark experts hired by the collector Bill Koch, who owns four of the Jefferson bottles, determined that the engravings on his bottles, as well as two others they had an opportunity to examine, were made using a modern power tool such as a dental drill.
The main lawsuit, which Koch filed against Hardy Rodenstock, is pending in New York. Koch has also filed suits against various auction houses (Acker Merrall & Condit, Zachys, Chicago Wine Company) and collectors (Rudy Kurniawan, Eric Greenberg). Most of those suits concern the sale of alleged fakes other than the Jefferson bottles, and they are all pending also.
As a consumer who has had an opportunity to attend many high-end wine tastings in China, I have observed that there is a strong desire among some wine people to be among the few invited. I wonder if that same desire influenced how critical some wine experts felt they could be about wines provided by Hardy Rodenstock?
No doubt some experts were more influenced than others, but I think it’s safe to say that for direct beneficiaries of Rodenstock’s largesse, it wouldn’t have been very gracious (or likely result in future invitations) to accuse him of fraud. So, the generous critical treatment of some of his odder-tasting bottles was probably an instance of not wanting to bite the hand that pours your wine. And I also think it was a case of wanting to believe. For the guests, these events — and the wines served at them — were once-in-a-lifetime experiences. It was hard not to get caught up in the excitement.
I found it interesting how little is known about Rodenstock, from his personal history to the source of the 1787 and other wines discussed in your book. Given the rarity of the wines he provided, and that some of the ensuing tasting notes have made it into books of some of the world’s most famous writers, how do you account for this?
The wine world has tended not to subject itself to much scrutiny, and the early-to-mid-eighties, in particular, was a relatively innocent time. Counterfeit wine just wasn’t on people’s radar as an issue. None of the publications best positioned to investigate the matter – Decanter, Wine Spectator, and the German magazine Alles uber Wein — had a tradition of investigative journalism: Decanter’s most esteemed columnist, Michael Broadbent, sold three of the Jefferson bottles and has described himself as one of Rodenstock’s “close friends”; Wine Spectator writers attended Rodenstock events, and the WS’s historically spotty coverage of the Jefferson bottles scandal almost invariably fails to disclose that none other than Marvin Shanken, the magazine’s owner, editor, and publisher, himself owns one of the Jefferson bottles; and Heinz-Gert Woschek, the longtime editor of Alles uber Wein, told me explicitly: “Hardy Rodenstock is a friend of mine. It was very delicate for me to write objectively.”
I know one collector in Hong Kong who has four bottles of the “Thomas Jefferson” wines as well as a plaque saying the source of them is Harry Rodenstock. How many of these bottles do you estimate are now in China?
I have no idea how many Jefferson bottles have made it over there, but Rodenstock was already selling to the Asian market, and inviting prominent Asian collectors to his tastings, by the early 1990s. He is well connected, in particular, in Hong Kong, where his godson is a wine merchant.
What advice do you have for people in the China market who are buying rare wines?
The same advice I would give anyone in any market: Enter at your own risk. For a long time, it was customary to advise people that they’d be safe if they relied on a trusted merchant, but one of the revelations of the Jefferson bottles affair has been how even the biggest, most venerable auction houses and merchants are fallible. I’ve spoken to very experienced collectors who simply won’t buy at auction anymore, and who limit their purchases now to either buying on release, or buying wines too obscure, or reasonably priced, to attract the interest of counterfeiters. With old and rare wine, buyers should demand to know the histories of the bottles. But for older vintages, in particular, there’s really no such thing as a sure thing; some of the leading chateaux, including Yquem, actually traded bottles with Rodenstock in the 1980s, so even if an old bottle comes from the cellar of the chateau itself (which most people would consider to be the gold standard of provenance), it doesn’t guarantee authenticity. In the end, people who go for ultra-premium, ultra-rare wine are playing a risky game, one best played by people who know they could be buying fakes, and are willing to take their chances.
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See here for an excerpt of Billionaire’s Vinegar.
China Wine Word: Julia Zhu, sommelier at Hilton Beijing
Posted on | November 10, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
Julia Zhu, sommelier at Beijing Hilton, honed her wine skills in Canada, where she received her certification from the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers and spent three years working at the Hilton Toronto. I asked her about the wine scene in China, her favorite tastings in Beijing, the upcoming Hilton Food & Wine Experience, and more.
How did your interest in wine arise and at what point did you decide to become a sommelier?
I am very much excited about the booming wine industry. Even though this year is a bit tough, and we see a drop in wine sales worldwide, the overall trend of growth is clear, especially in Chinese wine market, which I see as having great potential. As wine professionals, we have passion about wine and our careers rely on the wine market.
I decided to become a sommelier while studying wine in Toronto. At that time, I worked in a fine dining restaurant where wines were very accessible. The wine world really intrigued me, both inside and outside of the classroom, and this carried me through the tough learning and training sessions.
You lead a weekly wine club at the Hilton Beijing. What are your three favorite classes so far?
Our wine club is not just about product promotion as are some other tastings. We aim to integrate wine knowledge, wine appreciation, and the background of wines we taste. My favorite class so far is a Burgundian wine tasting during which we had Louis Bouillot Perle de Crémant Brut NV, Bouchard Aine & Fils Pouilly Fuisse 2007, Jean Claude Boisset Bourgogne Chardonnay 2006, Pinot Noir 2005, and Gevrey Chambertin 2005, and Idol vodka from Burgundy.
I also liked the Penfolds tasting, when we had Rawson’s Retreat Riesling 2007, Koonunga Hill “Seventy Six” Shiraz Cabernet 2006, Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2006, Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz 2003, Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz 2006, and RWT 2004. The Italian Antinori wine tasting and California Chardonnay and Cabernet tastings were also great.
Many Chinese consumers buy Bordeaux because it is fashionable. What wines do you find they prefer when it comes to taste?
The majority of Chinese consumers, especially the new wine drinkers I have met or know, actually think that the wines from the New World, such as from Australia, Chile, Argentina, and South Africa, are trendy and easy to drink. I think especially at the early stage they prefer wines that are more fruit driven, fuller bodied, less acidic, less dry to off dry, and not too complicated.
What are your general impressions of wines produced in China? Do you have any favorites?
China is still young and immature in terms of modern wine making, however, you can argue about the industry’s history, improvement over the years, technology, and a lot of other factors. In my opinion, it just leaves us more room to improve in terms of governmental regulation, vineyard management, wine production methods, and so on. And we are slowly realizing that we are facing more challenges than many other wine making countries. I tasted some single varietal wines, such as the Cabernet Franc from Grace Vineyard, and found them more concentrated and interesting, but I haven’t got my favorite yet.
What is the best wine experience you have had since returning to Beijing?
Being in Beijing for just over a year, my best wine experience was actually not that long ago, at the DRC tasting, when I had the pleasure of trying seven 2005 Grand Crus – Echezeaux, Grand-Echezeau, Romanee St. Vivant, Richeburg, La Tache, Romanee-Conti, and Montrachet.
What can people expect at the upcoming Hilton Food and Wine Experience?
Around one thousand different wines from all over the wine making world, food events such as meat and seafood tastings, and activities such as wine seminars hosted by famous Australian writer Jeremy Oliver. We will also have a tasting competition, a fine wine auction, and a fun wine auction. In short, you just have to come and see it for yourself.
More details about the Hilton Food & Wine Experience are here.
Tasting time in Beijing: Hilton Wine Fair, Zind Humbrecht, Galician dinner, and more
Posted on | November 9, 2009 | No Comments
By Jim Boyce
Lots of wine events coming up, including this Saturday’s Hilton Food & Wine Experience (see here for last chance to win tickets and an overnight stay) and plenty of Beaujolais Nouveau parties (full list coming next week).
Of note is tomorrow’s Domaine Zind Humbrecht wine dinner with owner and winemaker Oliver Humbrecht, the first Master of Wine in France and a leader in bio-dynamics, at Maison Boulud. The fee is RMB600, fair dinkum for a quality dinner with wines at this restaurant. RSVP with Oliver Baenninger at Globus Wine – 010-5206-3020 or oliverbaenninger@globus-wine.com.
The Spanish Chamber of Commerce in China are co-hosting a wine dinner that features Galician cuisine by Jordi Villegas, including lobster, tomato, and basil salad, suckling pig terrine with truffle dressing, and pan-fried scallops. The evening includes five Galician wines and five Galician liqueurs. Details: November 13, 7 PM to 10 PM, Blu Lobster, RMB888 (pay in advance to the Spanish Chamber of Commerce), RSVP deadline November 11. To RSVP or for more information, contact info@spanishchamber-ch.com.
Summergate has announced that The Courtyard, which overlooks the Forbidden City, now has an Enomove wine cart that will allow diners to choose a glass – or a sample – of fine wine at their tables. The promotion is called “Taste Wine Food Moat”. I’m not sure what that means, but I do like the idea of tasting a few additional wines with my meal.
The Spanish Chamber of Commerce in China and IGAPE (Galician Institute for Economic Development) are pleased to present “Spanish Fine Wine Dinner/Galician Gastronomy” a real gastronomic experience where you can enjoy the high cuisine of Jordi Villegas, renowned Spanish Chef who has worked for 10 years in some of the most famous Michelin restaurants. You may also enjoy a selection of 5 Galician fine wines and 5 Galician high quality Liqueurs.
This is an excellent opportunity to introduce the food and wine from Galicia to your business customers and friends in a relaxed and friendly atmosphere in one of the best restaurants in Beijing (Blu Lobster / Shangri – La Hotel).
SPANISH FINE WINE DINNER/GALICIAN GASTRONOMY
Organizer: Spanish Chamber of Commerce in China
Sponsor: Galician Institute for Economic Promotion (IGAPE)
Collaborator: Spanish Ministry of Industry, Tourism and Commerce.
Place: Shangri-La Hotel, Blu Lobster ( 29 Zizhuyuan Road , Beijing /北京紫竹院路29号) Tel: 6841 2211 Ext. 6752
Date: Friday, November 13
Time: 19.00 – 22.00
Price: 888 RMB per person
Payment: In advance, at the Spanish Chamber of Commerce.
Limited seats available, please book in advance before Wednesday, November 11.
RSVP to the Chamber
Best regards,
Gabriel Moyano Vázquez
General Secretary
Spanish Chamber of Commerce in China
Tel: +86 10 64169774, 64167323
Fax: +86 10 64161534
E-Mail: info@spanishchamber-ch.com
Money flows like water: Acker Merrall & Conditt tops ~165 million with Hong Kong wine auction
Posted on | November 9, 2009 | 1 Comment
By Jim Boyce
Money continues to flow like water at Hong Kong wine auctions, with Acker Merrall & Condit reporting HKD39.15 million (USD5.05 million) in sales last Saturday and HKD165.81 million (USD21.4 million) for the year. The company’s press release states that 98 percent of the 1100 lots were purchased via sales room, email, phone, and absentee bids.
Sales included a reported world auction record for 1982 Chateau Petrus – a case of 12 went for HKD726,000 (USD94500). Other noted highlights: a case of 1982 Château Lafite Rothschild for HKD435500 (US$56000), a box of 1999 Henri Jayer Vosne Romanée Cros Parentoux for HKD387000 (US$50000), and 12 bottles of 1995 Krug Vintage Champagne Clos d’Ambonnay for HKD242,000 (USD31,266).
States John Kapon, the company’s president and auction director, “we plan to hold five to six major sales in Hong Kong next year.”
This year’s auctions have the international media giddy, though I have heard my share of scepticism from private observers about the nature of the situation. Look for several posts to soon appear on this issue.
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