Translation: Latour lunch – 拉图午餐会:酒庄总经理弗雷德里克•恩杰尔
Posted on | June 19, 2008 | 2 Comments
By Ma Huiqin
This is a translation of a post originally in English – Latour lunch: Chateau GM Frederic Engerer.
4月26日我与六位中国葡萄酒作家一起同拉图酒庄的总经理弗雷德里克•恩杰尔共进了午餐。本次活动是由ASC精品葡萄酒公司在北京的凯悦饭店中国餐厅组织的。本次活动我们品尝了拉图酒庄1995和2001年份的酒,搭配包括北京烤鸭在内的中国菜,交流拉图酒庄的有关情况以及中国葡萄酒产业的宏观途径。我问了他三件事。
您品尝过中国葡萄酒吗?
他说:很遗憾,还没有尝试过。
您如何看待中国对波尔多葡萄酒市场的影响不断增加?
他说一些像中国这样的一些国家正在改变着拉图酒庄消费者的构成:“这将是一群不同的消费者。”
“我们没法对我们的葡萄酒价钱大涨三倍负责任。”他补充说到,“这件事超出了我们的掌控范围。我们的目标就是每年提供最好的葡萄酒。”
您对螺旋盖的看法以及拉图酒庄是否试验过螺旋盖?
他对螺旋盖反应强烈。他提到螺旋盖时用了“人造的(artificial)”一词,而且质疑用上螺旋盖好酒其陈年的结果究竟如何。
“如果你酿的酒是为了在出厂后18个月之内就被喝掉的产品,螺旋盖相当不错。”他说,但是用软木塞更有利于贮存。“这不是传统与现代之间的较量。人们都理解我们的葡萄酒是可以存放50年的。”
他没有为拉图酒庄是否曾经尝试过使用螺旋盖提供线索。
他说“我们的目标是使用更好的软木塞。一旦使用了螺旋盖,葡萄酒就变成另一种东西了。别人管它叫葡萄酒,但我们不这样认为。”,并显示出了他对螺旋塞鼓吹者的不快。
他指着我们喝的葡萄酒问:“你们愿意让这些葡萄酒接触到人造材料吗?”
当被问到玻璃密封塞的时候,他说拉图酒庄在2000年份的葡萄酒上使用过一些,并将在2010年对这些酒进行品尝。他补充说拉图酒庄曾经使用过玻璃密封塞的年份分别是:十九世纪二十年代、十九世纪三十年代和十九世纪四十年代。
说到菜肴与葡萄酒的搭配,前面的几道菜都太辣了,特别是那些起源于中国西南部的菜肴,因此后面的菜我们就减少了辣的因素,北京烤鸭算是个尚可的搭配。和一位波尔多的重量级人物进行交流,同时尝试食物与葡萄酒的新搭配更增加了乐趣。
注:我们当天品尝葡萄酒分别为:Les Forts de Latour, Pauillac, 2001; Chateau Latour Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 2001; and Chateau Latour Grand Cru Classe, Pauillac, 1995.
(赵丹、刘茜译,马会勤审校)
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July 2nd, 2008 @ 3:01 pm
[...] Frederic Engerer Chateau Latour president (translation) [...]
August 14th, 2008 @ 10:40 pm
[...] Frederic Engerer Chateau Latour president (translation) [...]