It seems every week I hear someone say the “natural wines trend” is in decline in China, that sales are tough, that a specialized wine bar just closed. I’m not sure if these observers realize it, but the entire wine industry has been in a sustained crisis–that’s the trend.

Anyway, despite the naysayers, I keep seeing festivals focused or featuring natural / biodynamic / etc wines. I keep seeing more local wineries embrace these styles. And I see distributors such as KC Wines in Shanghai doubling down on the category–the company aims to add 25 more wineries and raise its portfolio to 300 labels by year’s end.

I did a Q&8 with KC Wines founder Jean-Raphael Archawski aka JR, who founded the company in 2012 and represents wineries from six countries, including some intriguing producers.

The Q&8 covers his expansion plans, the consumer trends he foresees in the next three to five years, the particular appeal of orange wine in China, and more.

1 Grape Wall of China: You started importing natural wines in China in 2012. How did the trade and consumers react back then? And what have been the biggest changes in attitudes since that time?

Jean-Raphael: In 2012, awareness of natural wines in China was extremely limited. Even among professionals in the wine industry, the concept was unfamiliar to the vast majority.

While consumers generally responded positively to the wines, their higher price points posed challenges for bars and restaurants, especially given the lack of training and wine knowledge among staff. Many sellers prioritized brand recognition over wine quality.

So, although we received consistent praise for our portfolio, actual orders were few and far between.

2 One niche gaining attention is orange wines. You first imported them ten years ago, starting with Pierre Frick from Alsace, and now have thirty labels. How did you get interested and where do orange wines fit into the larger wine scene?

My first encounter with orange wine was at a tasting at Caves Augé in Paris in the mid 2000s. I was a passionate wine enthusiast at the time, not yet in the industry.

I remember seeing an Italian winemaker pouring a cloudy, amber-hued wine that suddenly drew a crowd. I tasted it and was instantly captivated—though I never learned the winemaker’s name. That moment sparked my love for orange wines and natural wines more broadly.

In China, orange wines resonate for several reasons.

Their aromatic profiles and umami-driven tannins appeal to younger consumers seeking vibrant, expressive wines. Their color is visually striking and more engaging than traditional whites. And they pair exceptionally well with Chinese cuisine, which often involves a variety of dishes served simultaneously—orange wines offer the versatility to complement everything from pork to fish to vegetables in one meal.

3 You posted earlier this year that you are adding 15 new wineries in 2025. How do you add wineries? And how long does it take from making the connection to selling the wines in China?

We follow a strategic development plan when selecting new wineries. Each addition must complement our existing portfolio and support our distribution channels. We offer around 270 distinctive wines where quality and character take precedence over price, and about 30 value-driven wines for more price-sensitive markets.

I personally seek out wineries that align with our philosophy. I rarely respond to unsolicited approaches, as our selection criteria are highly specific and discerning. The producers we target typically don’t need to chase importers—rather, importers pursue them for allocations.

Once we’ve secured a winery, it can take three to six months before the wines arrive in China, depending on our shipping schedule.

4 You also posted that you plan to expand to 300 wines this year, which seems brave given the current market. Who are the main clients for your wines?

We’ve already reached the 300-wine milestone. Bold moves are part of our DNA—we’ve always positioned ourselves at the forefront of the market.

Our primary clients are bars, restaurants and bistros, though we’re now expanding into off-trade channels through select resellers.

5 Social media platforms like WeChat, Little Red Book and Douyin (TikTok) have given consumers much more choice in terms of wine and wine info. Have you seen any benefits in promoting your clients?

China’s digital transformation has made social media a powerful tool for building brand awareness, trust and loyalty. While we don’t sell directly to consumers, we use digital platforms to support our resellers—helping them understand our wines and communicate their value effectively.

6 I saw you are quite active with wine trade and consumer fairs like CRUSH, RAW and Wine to Asia’s Living Wines. What role do these events play?

These events are less about immediate sales and more about visibility and education. They give both resellers and consumers the opportunity to taste, evaluate and form their own opinions about natural wines—rather than relying on hearsay.

Such exposure is essential if we want natural wines to be appreciated for their true quality.

7 I also saw you carry Chinese natural wines, which are growing in number every year. What is your take on this trend?

We began working with Chinese producers three years ago, starting with Gloriville and more recently Pingyao. I view this trend positively—supporting local production is important.

While it’s difficult to verify the authenticity of natural winemaking practices in China, I’m committed to backing those who genuinely embrace the spirit of natural wine.

8 For consumers who are new to natural / orange wines, which three of your wines would you recommend they try first?

Assuming a modest budget, I’d suggest starting with Pierre Frick “Voyages” (Alsace), Domaine de l’Envol “Eros” from the Vins Pirouettes collective (Alsace) and Simian “L’Orange” (Rhône Valley).

These offer a great introduction to the category without overwhelming the palate or wallet.

Bonus: We’ve seen so much wine market change in the past dozen years, from the Bordeaux boom to the rise of quality Chinese wines to the current growth of white wine sales. What trends do you expect in the next three to five years?

I anticipate a growing preference among younger consumers for wines that are easy-drinking—silky textures, fruity aromas and a touch of sweetness. Orange wines are well-positioned to meet this demand.

Another emerging trend is lower-alcohol wines, including those made from alternative ingredients beyond grapes.

Among wealthier and older drinkers, I see a shift away from big-name brands toward boutique, artisanal producers. These wines offer a sense of authenticity and wellness, appealing to personal values rather than status
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KC Wine is strategically positioned at this intersection—serving both emerging and established markets. But success requires patience, education and conviction. Trends are fleeting; importers and retailers must believe in the wines they offer.

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