(A version of this post first appeared in the free Grape Wall newsletter. Sign up here.)
The last two miles to this year’s Whisky+ festival was the traffic jam of the season. I eventually left my shared ride and walked with thousands of other thirsty citizens in the glorious Beijing weather. We’re talking sunny, breezy and 22 degrees, with the air clean from huge gusts the night before.
One goal involved not whisky but wine, to see what this festival might tell us about the state of both imported and local brands.
I saw online there would be a Yunnan pavilion as well as one by a new guide promoting 50 quirky / intriguing local wines–the newest producers of traditional-method bubbly, hybrid grapes like Rose Honey and Crystal Jade linked to 19th-century European missionaries, plus Ningxia Marselans and Shandong Chardonnays and even Cserszegi Fuszeres from just outside Beijing.
And a bottle of Pinot Noir made by a roaming winemaker who spent time at Bass Phillip.
The Yunnan pavilion was no slouch, either, with excellent Vidal icewine and the kind of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and Cabernet Francs that convince many this region might not make the most wine, but it will be the best.
And there was a curious blend of icewine and baijiu, China’s national spirit. Not just any old baijiu– the sauce-aroma style associated with Moutai. The spirit’s deep savory and umami notes partnered well with the icewine’s sweet and fruity intensity.
Beyond that, I was curious how attendees would react. I found a steady stream of tasters, sometimes three or more deep, vying to get at those wine bottles. The crowd itself was young, drawn both by the wines / spirits and the overall vibe, with live bands, line dances, dozens of food stalls and lounge areas with inflatable couches.
The event also underscored how much cities in China differ. That weekend, Shanghai held the Bunch Festival and one friend posted, “Incredible event yesterday at Bunch. Exceptional turnout, with over 1000 wine enthusiasts showing up and drinking, tasting like there is no tomorrow.”
“Genuine curiosity, lots of questions answered, and great feedback for all our wines,” he explained. “Really refreshing to have such a successful event while you often hear the market is dead.”
That’s just one of many such wine events in Shanghai. Sadly, we rarely seem to get those in Beijing. So, it makes sense some wine sellers, in search of curious young consumers, are heading to whisky, coffee and beer festivals.
I should say sellers of local wines as I don’t typically see imports at such events. It reminded me of an Italian-themed pizza festival in Beijing a few years ago, when I failed to convince any Italian wine importers to organize a booth. That festival drew thousands of attendees, in the mood for food and drink Italian, and seemed like a perfect place to find new wine customers. Cosi e la vita.
In any case, as I saw in Shenzhen during Wine to Asia last month, consumer awareness of local wine is on the rise. Once upon a time, such wines were assumed to be poor, but now more people know the brands and regions, and are eager to try more.
I don’t want to overstate this situation. Total wine consumption in China is still small, and the volume of these niche local wines is a small part of that small market, but it matters that both awareness and appreciation are steadily rising.
As for the whisky, local producers are also gaining strength. Chengdu-based Laizhou, in particular, is impressive.
Much of the local whisky at these shows is still in development and thus not for sale. Good news, then, that Laizhou recently launched retail shops on five major platforms like Taobao and Jingdong, including 700 ml bottles of two different blends, starting at RMB120 / USD17, as well as gin and vodka. I was told five single malts will be added next month.
This should be a good test of consumer interest, especially as recent import stats show value per bottle has dropped substantially over the past 18 months as people seek to stretch their renminbi and find value.
No doubt, some will doubt Chinese whisky. I also have questions about some brands. From where do their ingredients come? How much production is done locally versus simply bottling imported whisky? What actually defines “Chinese whisky”? And more.
But we went through this with wine, when cheap imported bulk was the key ingredient in many “Chinese” wines, when people could take advantage of lax regulations to push subpar products, and so on. While challenges still remain, the quality and reputation of local wine is much improved in recent years. And I’m guessing Chinese whisky will follow.
I saw the potential firsthand in January at the Fujian distillery of veteran China wine producer Grace Vineyard. They have now used their distillate to fill over 1000 barrels that once held Bourbon, Bordeaux, Sherry and Grace’s own wine from Ningxia and Shanxi. And the first tastes are impressive.
What does it all mean for imported wine and whisky?
Hopefully that a rising tide raises all ships, that the growing interest in local wines and spirits we see will mean more interest in imported ones, too, and that this will translate into plenty of opportunity thanks to the massive population of China. Sometimes you have to keep your fingers crossed if you want to stay sane in this business!
On a final note, I’ll add that beyond the booze, the Whisky+ festival’s quality also impressed. From the professional promotion, ticketing and brochures to the thousands of curious people drinking, eating, dancing and relaxing from early afternoon to late evening, to the wide range of live acts and food stalls–not only do Chinese wines and spirits keep growing in quality, but events promoting them do, too.
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