Monthly Archives: July 2019

Wine in China | Diversity grows in “tier 1” cities

By Jim Boyce | Wine diversity is spreading in China, especially in ‘tier 1’ cities like Beijing and Shanghai. And while the number of connoisseurs might pale compared to those buying mass market and status-oriented brands, they do represent a bright spot in a wine scene where both local production and imported wines have taken hits during the past year.

We see consumer interest in more regions and styles, more brands and stories. We see more rosé wine. More natural wine. More Chinese wine that makes people rethink their assumptions.

I wrote about this for Meininger’s Wine Business International, with the interviewees including Matt Bahen (De Bortoli), Charles Carrard (Boisset), Yiftach Bar (Diva China), Isabella Ko (The Merchants), Alex Chen (Alexander Wine), Oliver Zhou (KOL), and Claudia Masueger and David Schaumann (CHEERS). (Get the full pdf here. And get more info about WBI here.)

I included lots of detail in the piece, including on people helping to lead this diversification, such as Li Meiyu (Park Hyatt, Oyster Talks), Jean-Marc Nolant (Black Wine Guide), Wang Shenghan (Lady Penguin) and Alberto Pascual (Pasion Wine). For me, the big pictures is that all of this interest, in the face of a fall in imports and local production, gives the wine scene hope:

… any diversification feels like sunlight through the clouds of uncertainty. There was a time not long ago when people worried that wine in general might be a trend, that consumers might move on to the next big thing. The growing number of enthusiasts at least means the wine scene has put down real roots and can withstand a storm or two.

Read the full story here.

Long Dai and prosper? |On Lafite’s new Chinese winery name

Iconic Bordeaux producer DBR Lafite just announced the name of its Shandong-based winery, a decade after the project began. I wrote this piece for Wine Searcher about what Lafite and that winery mean for China. Here are a few points about the name that didn’t make the cut.

Lafite’s China winery is named Long Dai. Yes, it sounds like Long Die.

The name is inspired by Taishan, a sacred peak in Shandong province, home of the winery. And represents “an idealized mountain that rose through the power of nature and was then carefully chiseled by human hands.” High-level stuff.

But the first reaction of a Chinese friend, and wine trade veteran, was of surprise.

She immediately associated Long Dai with Dynasty, the big China wine producer. We have both heard people label wines from Dynasty as “Die Nasty“.

Whether or not that is fair is besides the point. (See here for medals won by Dynasty in contests.) The point is a name can open the door for a joke, especially when the key has been turned by somebody else.

(I’m not sure what would happen if you blended Dynasty and Long Dai. They say that life is “nasty, brutish and short”. In that case, it might end up nasty, Cru-tish and with a short finish?)

Anyway, I have a PR solution. Because I assure you, my friend won’t be the last to make this association.

Long Dai / Lafite is in Qiu Shan Valley and close to the myths of Penglai Mountain—said to be home of The Eight Immortals.

“According to the ancient text [Mountains and Seas], Penglai Mountain was an isle of eternal summer in the Bohai Sea, where wine glasses refilled themselves and magic fruits granted everlasting youth,” states state media China Daily.

Self-refilling wine glasses? How appropriate. Sign me up for that club.

With this intriguing back story, “Long Die” can simply be a terse way of proclaiming “immortality”. Or at least “longevity”. Made possible simply by guzzling Lafite wine.

In short: Long Dai –> Long Die –> Live Long –> Immortal.

No need to pay for this advice, Lafite. A six-pack of Long Dai is enough. I will use it for a special Long ‘Die Hard’ movie night with my friends. We can enjoy action movie antics and live forever — or for at least for a very Long time.

And if there is any wine left, then we’ll switch to Star Trek. And ganbei each time Spock says “Live Long (Dai) and prosper.”

Long Dai | Lafite names its Shandong winery

By Jim Boyce | Ten years after it started. Lafite finally named its project in Shandong: Long Dai. The wines are slated to go on sale in September and be delivered in November. I wrote about the name—pronounced as Long Die—here. And a much longer piece for Wine Searcher here.

That longer piece includes quite a bit about how the China market has changed during the past decade. From the early days of generous state-owned enterprise entertainment accounts, which covered top wines, to today’s scene where the austerity campaign is largely in force. From quality local wines being few and far between to there being dozens of operations making worthy wines. From Lafite being the most faked brand to, well, not much has changed except Penfolds has risen to be a challenger for that title. Etc.

In general, it’s not 2009 any more and Long Dai isn’t your uncle’s Lafite.

Anyway, you can find more on that, some of the challenges of making wine in Shandong and some early reviews of the wine here.

From ASC to DFC | Richard Li new president of two boutique Chinese wineries

By Jim Boyce | Richard Li has joined the boutique wineries Domaine Franco-Chinois and Canaan in Hebei province as president after a 17-year stint with ASC Fine Wines. Li joined ASC in 2002 when it was run by co-founders Don St Pierre Sr and Don St Pierre Jr, and stayed on board after Suntory bought a majority share in 2009. As ASC vice president, his portfolio included brand marketing, supply chain management and open-market fine wines. In a staff announcement, CEO Yoshi Shibuya stated that Li will remain involved with ASC as an adviser to both it and Suntory Group.

Domaine Franco-Chinois (DFC) and Canaan are neighboring projects based just outside of Beijing. They are owned by Cher Wang, prominent in IT business circles, with Tom Hsu overseeing the founding of Canaan in 2006 and acquisition of DFC in 2010. DFC originally began as a joint Chinese-French scientific project in 1999, with China providing land and France providing vines and technology. DFC and Canaan wines are not yet commercially available but have received good reviews from critics and are set to create a splash once released.

An obvious question is who will distribute those wines. No doubt, given Li’s connection, there will be much speculation about ASC. It already works with Shanxi winery Grace Vineyard, which signed in late 2016 after over a dozen years with Torres China, and which is arguably the country’s biggest fine wine success story. Combining Grace’s rounded portfolio, including four sparkling wines and varieties like Aglianico, with the already well-received wines of DFC and Canaan would make for an impressive one-two punch.

More to come on this project soon.

“If they don’t care, we also don’t care” | Simon Su on Chinese tariffs, US wines

Shanghai-based Simon Su has imported Santa Barbara brands Dierberg and Star Lane for nearly a decade—and has a lot to say about the three Chinese tariffs levied on U.S. wines these past 15 months. I included his key points in this Wine Searcher story and posted an extended version of his comments below.

On the trio of tariffs

“With the first and second tariffs, some wineries provided discounts to help importers survive. That was okay, especially for fine wine. But for the third tariff, effective June 1, this is very serious.”

“This means if the importers don’t increase prices now, they will make zero money. You can calculate the total of the three tariffs. Importers in China have no room to make money at all if they focus on wholesale.”

[This is based on importers selling wine at ~50 percent over the cost of buying the wine, shipping, Customs et al. Tariff hikes of 15, 15 and 10 percent essentially consume that.]

On different kinds of clients

Su says 30 percent of his sales are to upscale restaurants and five-star hotels. “For this portion, we cannot increase the price, so we just break even. We continue to sell but we don’t make any money. Strategically, we want to keep this customer base. Hopefully, we can withstand this situation for one year or two. Hopefully we can see improvement and progress between [US President Donald] Trump and [China President] Xi [Jinping].”

Fifty percent of Su’s clients are private. A typical one is a factory owner who needs wine to entertain guests and has bought from Su for years. “He’s very loyal to one brand, he doesn’t want to change to another region, I have a lot of these customers. We will increase our prices 15 percent, which is the same percentage as the third tariff. Since most of our clients know the quality of our wines, it makes sense. We just add 15 percent. We told them if the trade war ends, we will decrease this. Normally all of them can accept this. That’s how we can survive and make some slight profit. These sales subsidize the 30 percent of clients where we break even or lose money.”

Finally, 20 percent of Su’s sales are via distributors around the country. “Right now, we lost almost all of them. They don’t want to increase costs and it’s harder to sell American wine.” He cites two reasons. “First, their customers know American wine is not competitive now. Second, people have a mood, they think Trump made trouble for China, and they don’t want to buy that commodity.”

On downsizing

“Some importers are considering shipping less than a container. So, one pallet or two pallets, instead of a full container. If they still need to shift some wine to China, that’s what they are considering.”

On wine smuggled from duty-free Hong Kong

“Without a Chinese back label, you can’t sell it in a restaurant or hotel. And the people who help bring this wine into China will charge 20 to 50 percent as labor cost, so it’s not cheap at all. If you want to take Lafite or Burgundy Grand Cru [for private customers], it might be worth doing so, but if you want to sell it in a restaurant or market to compete with other legally imported wines, you shouldn’t do it.”

On his overall sentiment

“I’m not optimistic. I don’t think the trade war is just about the trade imbalance, It’s related to politics and the military and I think it will last a very long time. Probably there will some commodities with temporary [tariff] decreases, but long-term developments will not be easy.” And if it does last a long time, and the U.S. doesn’t come to an agreement with China?

“If they don’t care, we also don’t care. If someday we aren’t making any money, then we will find another country’s wine.”

Read the full Wine Searcher piece here.